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Building Skin Resiliency at Every Age!

Dec 20, 2017 02:00PM
By Lisa J. Gotto

When it comes to skin and anti-aging, the latest news from research circles is “resiliency.” In the laboratories that conduct intensive studies of the skin and its properties, researchers are digging deeper than ever before, at the molecular level, through the layers, or stratums, of the skin and examining how the cells in each stratum react to stressors, primarily the environment.

In a recent symposium of chemists, physicians, and anti-aging product manufacturers, researchers were able to clearly explain the key role the skin’s epidermis plays in our skin’s resiliency. Simply put, our skin has the ability to bounce-back and regenerate, but at what rate this happens varies widely depending on certain biological markers including genetics, age, and even ethnicity.

If our skin had a “ground zero” that would clearly be the epidermis. This wondrous layer is actually several layers of structured cell groups and has four primary functions: it protects our skin from a hostile environment, it prevents water loss, provides a defense shield against infections, and controls permeation of molecules.

A sure sign that skin is lacking resiliency, for example, is that it is dry. Dry skin is a common problem. Billions of dollars are spent annually to develop and then purchase moisturizers to address this problem. While there are currently many wonderful products for hydration, most work only on the skin’s outer-most layer to address the more physical manifestations of dry skin. While this is certainly helpful and cosmetically enhancing, it does not go far enough, and scientists know that dermatological professionals and consumers are demanding more.

Scientists now know, however, what’s going on at the molecular level that’s causing the skin to dry out and are helping chemists to develop specifically targeted ingredients for products. Delving deep within layers of molecules that make up the epidermal structure with names like corneum, granulosum, spinosum, and basale, researchers can now anticipate what will happen to make cells less resilient, what that looks like at the molecular level, and then anticipate what the eventual physical manifestation will be.


Through the Ages



To get the most complete picture scientists looked at the aging process in four groups, so generational cosmetic needs could be addressed: Generation Z, those born between 1995 and 2010; Millennials, born 1981 to 1995; Generation X, born 1965 to 1980; and Baby Boomers, born 1946 to 1964. A set of protocols for ingredients was then based on the condition of skin in that age group and what the primary needs are for each group. They are as follows:

Gen Z

Primary Goal: Maintain
Skin Profile: Skin looks good, skill cells are regenerating efficiently. Protein levels in the skin that provide resiliency are firm and plentiful.
Primary Need: Hydration; it’s what helps the complexion remain smooth and radiant.

Millennials

Primary Goal: Protect and enhance
Skin Profile: Skin is just starting to change after being exposed to external stresses over time. Earliest signs of aging appear now.
Primary Need: Anti-aging basics; skin protection and addressing skin tone and moisturization needs.

Gen X

Primary Goal: Enhance
Skin Profile: Skin has now been exposed to many years of UV rays and lifestyle impacts eroding its ability to retain moisture and support its underlying structure.
Primary Need: Addressing the root of the problem at its origin by making skin more resilient against daily stressors and prevent dry skin conditions.

Baby Boomers

Primary Goal: Restore
Skin Profile: Skin has experienced significant change and there’s a greater need for structural support.
Primary Need: Maintaining functionality and homeostasis (balance and equilibrium) of the skin. Targeted and consistent anti-aging care is a necessity.


PRODUCT WATCH: What to Look For



Once all the data was collected and analyzed, the chemists were able to go into the lab and start their formulation wizardry. What they developed were four new ingredients and/or compounds that, when used alone or combined with the other three in formulas, can address the concerns of all four age groups studied. So, the next time you’re label reading at your favorite beauty store, make a note to look for these key ingredients:

The Four Ingredients to Watch For Are: Pentavitin®, Alpaflor®, Syn-Up™, and SYN-TACKS®

Pentavitin – Known as “the moisture magnet” is a skin-identical carbohydrate complex, that provides up to 72 hours of deep hydration to skin. Chemists are most excited about this one because they said they could see a clear effect produced, so they know it works.

Alpaflor – Described as a natural, bio-active, Alpaflor is said to provide exceptional care for stressed and sensitive skin. Sounds like a great benefit for the Gen Xers mentioned above.

Syn-Up – Defined as a “…unique patented synthetic peptide derivative,” it restores the skin’s youthful resilience by addressing dry skin conditions by rebalancing urokinase and plasmin in the skin—two key components for skin resilience.

Syn-TACKS – Is a specific, patented combination of two highly active synthetic peptides that increase elasticity, firmness, and suppleness to the skin. Improvement is reported to be seen within two months of use.

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