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Dining with Gilles

La Mona Lisa
2444 Solomons Island Rd., Annapolis
410-266-7595

Food, glorious food. That's what you can expect at La Mona Lisa Ristorante Italiano, tucked in a small shopping center on Solomons Island Road.

From the outside you might wonder about your choice, but once inside you will be astonished with the beautiful surroundings and welcoming ambiance. There's an interestingly-cut marble bar and, in the dining room, chic Italian décor with Roman style chair rails and cornices, staggered ceilings and well-chosen Italian art work. Andrea Boccelli singing in the background will definitely induce you to sit down and anticipate what comes next.

Manager Arturo, from Verona, Italy, will welcome you. After a short speech he will introduce you to Mario, the Maitre 'd, who will recite the specials with such passion that it will sound like an opera. With two house-trained servers, you will receive impeccable service.

Bernardo is the chef. We didn't get to meet him, but we know that he is also a native Italian and is self-trained-and what a chef he is.

We couldn't resist the tempting four-course Tasting Menu. We began with two delectable starters: succulent Oysters Fiorentina, and Beef Carpaccio on Arugula with shaved fresh parmesan, black truffles and a lemon olive oil dressing. There was more-our second appetizer was a Ravioli Arogonese: homemade ravioli stuffed with lobster and asparagus in a light Rose sauce with lump crab. Needless to say, just outstanding.

We then enjoyed a light little arugula and Belgium endive salad in a balsamic vinaigrette with Gorgonzola cheese, toasted almonds and walnuts, a perfect set up for the entrees.

A delectable, thick, medium-cooked veal chop topped with a porcini mushroom sauce was so tender and juicy it had my eyes rolling, while Kathy was savoring the absolutely best rack of lamb. (We let the vegetables and starches on the side go-not that they weren't good, but the main ingredient got all our focus). Kathy sipped a wonderful Valpolicella Ripasso Vino rosso with her meal.

At this point, there was no refusing desserts. The homemade Profiterolles were out of this world and the unctuous vanilla flan was just begging to be eaten. We ended with two frothy, creamy cappuccinos. What a dinner!

La Mona Lisa is a new concept created by the same partnership that owns Squisito's and Café Mezzanote. The restaurant, which serves lunch and dinner daily, will celebrate its first birthday in May. Patrons can also choose from an a la carte menu, enjoy a fresh fish carved tableside, host a private party for twenty guests, or explore a special wine and food tasting menu (ask when the next one is scheduled). And here's a nice surprise: for an establishment of this caliber, you will find it extremely competitively priced.

Ciao and Buon Appetito!