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Maybe it's the neighborly environs. Perhaps it's the precise and flashy cooking by the chef. Could it be the children's laughter? Or maybe it's the adults wavering like porpoises in anticipation of catching shrimp in their mouths? Whatever it is that makes you excited about hibachi grilling, it's a sure bet for an interactive dining experience. We thoroughly enjoyed the joyful display of showmanship at the newest Fuji Japanese Steak, Seafood House, located in Edgewater's Main Street at South River Colony. The restaurant offered us an authentic celebration of this now-famous Japanese style of cooking.

Owners Sandy and James Chen welcomed our party of six into the spacious hibachi area in what is their second of two Fuji restaurants-their first opened in Crofton's Village at Waugh Chapel in 2002. We enlisted the trusted taste buds of good friends Cathy and Has and our daughter Kate, along with her friend Scott (both age 16) to join us for what could only be described as delicious entertainment. We found the restaurant's atmosphere to be a beautiful mix of authentic Japanese and modern American décor, complete with kimonos, lanterns, and deep, rich woods adorning the walls.

The word hibachi is based on the Japanese hi-fire and bachi-bowl. The hibachi began as a type of portable charcoal brazier used to heat the homes of the nobility and made from dug-out cypress wood lined with clay. However, craftsmen soon began to make more decorative versions with lacquered finishes, gold leaf, and artistic designs as materials such as metal and ceramics became more popular over time. Traditional hibachis can be very attractive objects in themselves and are sometimes sold as antiques.

Hibachi grilling is a modern innovation, involving cooking foods at high heat over a hibachi grill. Modern hibachi grills are typically made of cast iron or aluminum and are popular as a form of portable barbecue due to their small size. Like a traditional hibachi, a hibachi grill also burns charcoal. It is designed to sear foods quickly, a cooking method adopted and modified by restaurants.

The Chens are really bringing the authenticity of Japanese hibachi grilling into the 21st century and focusing on offering a fresh, quality product. Shortly after being seated around the large grill where our meals would be prepared tableside, we were greeted by our server, Karry, a Los Angeles transfer, who provided us excellent service all evening.

The Chens are really bringing the authenticity of Japanese hibachi grilling into the 21st century and focusing on offering a fresh, quality product. Shortly after being seated around the large grill where our meals would be prepared tableside, we were greeted by our server, Karry, a Los Angeles transfer, who provided us excellent service all evening.

The wine menu is separated into two lists. One list features seven sake choices and two plum wines. If you enjoy the subtle sweetness of the popular alcohol rice drink, a small bottle of sake, taken warm or slightly chilled, is a great way to start sharing your Japanese dinner. The other wine list contains seventeen selections of moderately priced favorites and Maryland wines-a nice nod to local vineyards. Japanese lagers-typically crisp and dry, medium-bodied, with discernible hops bitterness-and domestics are also offered.

Once we settled into our drink selections we were ready to dive into the well-rounded and favorably priced dinner menu, with its blend of modern Japanese and American cuisine, with a focus on sushi and hibachi selections. We started with expertly made Manhattan (eel, avocado, cucumber) and California (avocado, imitation crabmeat, flying fish roe) sushi rolls. We also shared plump pork gyoza (dumplings) and crisp shrimp and vegetable tempura. Though these were filling, we were more than pleased with the medley of rich tastes, a great introduction to Eastern fare.

For our main courses, the real fun began. Our chef, Tony, who actually came to the United States 20 years ago from Vietnam, presented himself and enthusiastically began his culinary showmanship by sautéing shrimp fried rice (a side dish served with all hibachi selections) on the grill with a whirlwind of slicing, dicing, flipping, and tossing of both the food and the utensils. His accuracy and skill were amazing, especially as he counted off "One, two, three," before gently tossing each of us a shrimp to catch in our mouths. The additional flare of a flaming volcano onion also took our breath away. Tony then moved on to whip up our entrées, which were various combinations of cubed and seasoned steak and chicken. You can opt to upgrade your bovine selection to tender morsels of filet mignon. Green salad was also included with all hibachi grill entrées, offering a clean balance of taste. All entrée portions were large, making Fuji a great value.

For dessert, we all shared banana tempura. Always a favorite, it featured warm bananas dipped in batter and fried, drizzled with chocolate, atop fresh ice cream . . . yummy. It was a delicious ending to our wonderful meal. Fuji Japanese Steak, Seafood House is fit for celebrating any occasion. The fun everyone had at the grill was priceless and laughter surrounds the whole area! For those who enjoy a quieter dinner, a spacious dining room is available.

Giles Syglowski is a chef, culinary instructor, and food services consultant. He is a graduate of the Lycie d'Eseignement Professional Hotelier in Metz, France. He and his wife Kathy, a member of the International Wine Society, have more than 45 years experience in the restaurant industry.

What's The DISH?
Piatti Piccolo at Pesce Grande - Italian tapas-style dining
By Patricia Dempsey

If you want a long life, eat a little at a time-Sicilian proverb [according to the Pesce Grande menu]

You don't have to be part of Pete Priola's extended family to linger over a plate of his favorite pasta, fettuccine alla pietro, with grilled chicken sautéed in garlic and spinach; or veal pizzaiola, veal smothered in mushrooms in a marinara sauce; or the mingled tastes of bruschetta topped with fresh plum tomatoes, basil, garlic, and cheese. Family meals are a cherished tradition for Pete, whose mother, known to many in Annapolis as "Maria" of Maria's restaurant, cooks dinner for the family every Sunday. Priola, whose family came to America from Sicily in 1969 when he was just a boy, has never lost touch with his family traditions-in fact he invites everyone to his table as the owner and head chef of his new restaurant, Pesce Grande.

"I learned so much about cooking from my family, but there is so much more to eating than food in my family. It's not the food itself, it's the gathering of the whole family together," says Priola. "You eat a little, you talk a little, 10 minutes later another bit of food arrives-you might share it. Here at Pesce Grande it's just like the big family dinner-we have lots of platters of delicious foods and you try a little here and a little there. We have small plates, piatti piccolo, it's fun."

By piatti piccolo, Priola means tapas-style dining with a unique twist-Italian instead of Spanish cuisine. Tapas, which literally means lid or cover, originated in Spain, most likely Andalusia, more than a century ago, when customers were given a piece of bread to cover their glasses of sherry to keep out the flies. "Then someone had the bright idea to add food," says Priola, "and they began snacking on small plates of food."

For his new restaurant Priola took his love of small plate dining and combined it with his favorite recipes. "I loved creating Pesce Grande. About 5 years ago when I started going to a lot of tapas places in D.C. and New York I had this vision. I felt that something was changing in the way people went out to eat-people want to choose a variety of foods, they want smaller, healthier portions, so at Pesce Grande we have a choice-small or large plate-from a wide variety of dishes on the menu," says Priola. "In most restaurants, you start out with a bunch of appetizers, you have a salad, and by the time the entrée comes you have a few bites and you're full-I didn't want that."

Fresh ingredients, consistency, and Priola's cherished recipes are key ingredients on the Pesce Grande menu. "Back in 1976 when we had a restaurant in Ocean City, the Villa Romana, I hired cooks literally off the boat from Italy. From them I learned the secrets of authentic Italian cuisine-using fresh and light ingredients. Italian sauces are freshly prepared, not simmered for hours-the Americanized version is simmered so long it's practically brown and is often loaded with sugar. Authentic Italian sauces are light, bursting with fresh flavor, spices." Since the restaurant opened in December, Priola says, certain items have been especially popular, including the filet stuffed with gorgonzola cheese, the shrimp al balsamico, paella, gourmet pizzas, and "Sicilian butter" (a fine olive oil for dipping bread). Also popular are the fixed price dinner for two or for six that offers a sampling of Pesce Grande's fare.

Priola admits that more than being a chef he is "an entrepreneur who loves food." While 90 percent of the recipes are his, most of the cooking is done by his sous-chef, Justin Meyer from Baltimore's Little Italy. This frees up Priola "to focus on everything-I've even spent the night here getting all the details taken care of." Priola's hard-working spirit has its roots in his early years. "We came from Sicily to Brooklyn in 1969. My father couldn't find work in his trade so he found a job at a pizzeria; I learned about the business working with him after school, on weekends." Since then Priola has helped open six restaurants.

Because there is more to a dining experience than the food, Priola's vision included creating a physical space that he says, "creates a feeling of home, yet is more uptown than the traditional, cozy Italian restaurant with stucco on the walls. I wanted something different, something bright, lively, modern-like what you might find in New York, D.C., or Baltimore, something more metropolitan." Priola served as general contractor of Pesce Grande and even lived with the restaurant's tawny-red wall color on one of his own walls at home for several days before choosing it for Pesce Grande. The décor is elegant and masculine, with club sofas, televisions high enough to see if you want to look-but not forced on you-quiet alcoves, a bright bar, and bold vintage prints. "I think it is really sexy," says Priola, "it's warm and elegant-there's a really great feeling here."

Plans for the future call for a pianist playing live blues and jazz, as well as new menu items for spring, including "grilled fish and menu items with a Hawaiian touch," says Priola, who keeps his eye on the food as much as the total experience of his new restaurant. He wants to ensure it's as comfortable and fun as his extended family gatherings. "It's the whole dining experience that's important. I love to see people eating and having a good time. Dining is an experience-you're not just coming to eat, you're coming here for the ambiance, to feel comfortable, at home."

Seafood alla Pesce Ingredients: 2 Lobster Tails (4oz.) 6 Mussels 6 Clams 2 Scallops 4 oz. Calamari (sliced) 5 oz. Linguini 5 oz. White Wine 4 oz. Marinara 3 Chopped garlic cloves 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pinch salt 1 pinch pepper fresh chopped parsley fresh chopped basil Preparation: Bring water to a boil in two 2 quart sauce pots and drop lobster and linguini in seperate pots; boil for 7-8 minutes. In skillet sauté garlic, basil, salt, pepper and olive oil over low heat for 2-3 minutes or until lightly browned. Raise skillet to medium heat and add calamari, clams, mussels, scallops and white wine; simmer 4-5 minutes or until mussels and clams open. Add marinara to skillet for 1-2 minutes. Remove lobster and drain linguini. Pour contents of skillet over linguini, top with lobster tails and garnish with fresh chopped parsley and whole basil leaves.