What's Up Magazines

Kobe beef with Indonesian brulee tomato and Hudson Valley FoieGras.

We had visited Yin Yankee Café a few years ago. We were looking forward to our return because our first experience was one that we did not forget. Would we taste a difference?

One of our dining companions was unable to join us, which left three of us to sample the menu—Cathy, Kathy, and Gilles. On what was an absolutely perfect fall day, we drove to downtown Annapolis, trying like so many others to absorb as much as possible of what was left of summer life in the town.

Yin Yankee Café exemplifies the “dining style and adventure of Annapolis.” Kim Klopcic and Jerry Trice, owners of the café, opened the door about 7 years ago. Trice is actually the executive chef and the creator of this Asian and American menu—he is a chef trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York State. The “funky” and very clectic décor matches well with the menu, which offers an abundance of different flavors and textures. Each dish is an original and is unique.

We began by ordering an array of dishes in no particular order and left it to Erin, our waitress, and the kitchen to serve them, as each was ready. Our first dishes were a Zen crab roll ($10), a duck spring roll ($8), and a shrimp & veggie beignet ($9). The fresh jumbo lump crab was served cold, wrapped in a crepe, and mixed with avocado, ginger, spinach, and cilantro accompanied by a spicy sauce—it was a pleasant starter. The duck spring roll was presented similarly. The crepe had scallions and a hint of coconut and the chopped duck and vegetable mixture was tasty, heavy on hoisin sauce, and featured spices that added complexity to the overall strength of this dish. The dipping sauce was also a nice complement. The beignets were delicious and fun to eat—delicately fried and served with a habanero pepper sauce that enhanced them perfectly.

Next we ordered a platter of assorted sushi and maki rolls ($35), of which the three of us are huge fans. Although they were good, we did express the same sentiment—they were a little too big for a single bite and perhaps the rice could have been a touch more moist.

We then enjoyed one of the daily specials: a wonderful Asian-style venison sirloin ($32), grilled and matched with fresh vegetables, laced with a delicious light glaze. We also shared a harmonious beef noodle bowl ($16) consisting of a char-grilled sirloin with cinnamon, star anise, and Thai rice noodles in a tangy hoisin sauce. This dish was very flavorful and fragrant—excellent! While we were passing along all of these plates we also munched on a bowl of edamame ($4) and, quite frankly, they were the best prepared we've had in a very long time.

Yin Yankee does offer a reserve wine list if you desire a vintage drink. Cathy enjoyed a fine glass of Riesling ($9), while Kathy savored one of the daily drink specials—a Grey Goose vodka martini ($10). Often there is a wine tasting organized with a neighboring liquor store, but the meals alone are worth the trip to Yin Yankee Café. We are looking forward to the opening of a Yin Yankee Café in Bethesda, which apparently will be a little less casual.

After our meal we surmised that little had changed since our first visit. The uniqueness is still there, the quality is consistent, you will always find wonderful dishes with aromatic spices and flavors, and all within a casual and affordable environment.

Gilles Syglowski is a chef, culinary instructor, and food service consultant. He is a graduate of the Lycee d'Enseignement Professional Hotelier in Metz, France. He and his wife, Kathy, a member of the International Wine Society, have more than 50 years' experience in the restaurant industry.

Chef Steven Wright has been a part of the O'Loughlin's restaurant family for 10 years. (Photo by Kimi Raspa)

There is a tribe of Eastporters who cannot wait to get a seat at the Boatyard Bar and Grill when Tuesday rolls around. This 5-year-old weekly tradition is a secret the regulars don't want you to know about. It is meatloaf night, and the staff cannot serve the night's special fast enough.

The $8.95 meatloaf special, which includes a side of mashed potatoes and parboiled vegetables covered in gravy, is served Tuesdays from 11:30 a.m. until close. The Boatyard also offers Dick's Meatloaf Sandwich, named after owner Dick Franyo. This meal usually takes shape the day after meatloaf night in households across the country, but in this case the 'loaf sandwich is always served fresh.

Baltimore native George Betz, the executive chef at Boatyard, studied at the Baltimore Culinary Institute (now Baltimore International College) and has more than 20 years of experience. He says, “I love meatloaf,” but he never imagined he'd be making it professionally. He notes that the staff makes 20 pounds of meatloaf every Tuesday and they “never have leftovers.”

High demand for the meal has led to some problems. “We almost had a fight one night,” says Betz, smiling. “We had one dish of meatloaf left and two orders came in at the same time.” Eventually, one patron conceded the plate to the other, but only under the condition that he get a small piece.

“We can't even change [the special] in the summertime,” says manager Tammy Reese, who created the recipe 5 years ago. There would be a public outcry if they did.

Betz thinks the special is popular because “people love hearty comfort food.” And their meatloaf is certainly one of the heartiest. After finishing a plate, patrons are often seen loosening their belts and looking for a place to nap.

It is hard to conceive how the restaurant could improve upon such a successful formula; but it has. “We started half-price bottles of wine [at the beginning of summer] and popularity has grown,” says Reese. With new liquor laws in effect, visitors can now take an opened bottle home with them, according to Reese.

A relative of the more finely ground pâté, meatloaf has a bad reputation, conjuring up comical images of burned or bland bread-shaped meat. But meatloaf has long been a staple of the American diet and, when done properly, is a delicious way to prepare ground beef.

Most modern recipes incorporate some cereal or bread, a practice that came about during the Great Depression to save money. Nowadays it's a great way to reduce the fat content of the loaf, though the choice of cereal determines the character of the final product. The Boatyard's recipe uses breadcrumbs soaked in milk, a clever technique to keep the meat soft and moist while strengthening the loaf. Other recipes use oats, cornflakes, and other cereals to make the meat more like dough.

Meatloaf is a flexible dish and allows for lots of room to experiment. Ground beef is the traditional meat of choice, but pork can add a distinct flavor and lower the price. Other variations include poultry, such as the Turkey Dinner in One, which incorporates ground turkey meat, stuffing, and vegetables topped with turkey gravy. More common, however, are ground veal and ground lamb. Some supermarkets provide blends of meat specifically for meatloaf or individual trays of each to use to make your own combinations.

Steak sauce, gravy, and just plain salt and pepper can do wonders when served with meatloaf. Ketchup is another common condiment, but a little more work can take advantage of the great relationship tomatoes and beef have. A can of tomato sauce poured over a meatloaf 10 minutes before it's done will create a tasty layer on top that seals in moisture and flavor.

Other sauces and glazes can dramatically change the dish's nature. Pour sweet-and-sour sauce over your meatloaf and it will go well with noodles and stir-fried vegetables. Bacon wraps can add a delicious, if not-so-healthy, flavor. German Jaeger sauce would go well with sauerkraut and red cabbage. Finally, a variety of glazes using sugar, vinegar, or ketchup can make your meatloaf stand out.

The Boatyard Bar and Grill is pleased to share with us the treat that has so many regulars eagerly awaiting Tuesday. Its recipe calls for a mix of sautéed vegetables and pork to add depth to the flavor and jalapeños to give the dish a bit of a kick. The chef recommends a red wine to go with the meal.

Conal Darcy is an editorial assistant at What's Up? Annapolis and enjoys peas and mashed potatoes with his meatloaf.

Sautéed scallops with a shitake mushroom salad.

Classy, contemporary, comfortable, zesty—Scossa Restaurant & Lounge is all that and then some. If first impressions mean everything, then Scossa should win you over. This slick addition to Easton's eats has the right ingredients for a dazzling dining experience: all star chef and ownership, clean elegance in design, par excellent service, robust wine list, and superior Northern Italian cuisine.

Owner/General Manager Grant Friedman's 18 years of experience in the luxury hospitality industry is matched well to Owner/Chef Giancarlo Tondin's training and experience in world class restaurants, from Venice to New York City. Together they created a restaurant with an inviting and sophisticated ambiance serving the regional complexity of Northern Italian cuisine. From scores of antipasto selections to a variety of signature risotto and pasta dishes to impressive main courses, the many regions and flavors that comprise North Italy are represented well. Risotto with shrimp and zucchini is considered a signature dish, while a diner favorite is scallops with shitake mushroom salad (pictured).

Scossa also offers patrons al fresco café-style seating, perfect for lunch or weather abiding evenings, and a friendly, full bar indoors. Scossa's caters to handicap individuals, kids, and vegetarians. Open everyday except Mon. for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (officially) and for dinner 5:30-9 p.m., Fri. & Sat. until 10 p.m. Will often stay open between dinner and lunch to accommodate customer demand.

Sautéed scallops with a shitake mushroom salad.

There's a new hero in town, ready to save your starving stomach. The Fix Deli, styled after New York delicatessens, is the newest addition to the ever-growing South River Colony in Edgewater. Located along Main Street, where most shopping and dining is concentrated, the deli offers the quick fix for your breakfast, lunch, and dinner cravings, deli needs, and specialty cooking ingredients (think Italian). The cozy yet open space is painted in warm autumn hues (rich orange, splashes of yellow) and features appropriately matched wood flooring.

Upon entering, a café area serves as the entrance, with tables and chairs to the left and specialty items (pasta, sauces, olive oil) for sale to the right. At the rear of the space is the deli case and ordering counter. There you'll find a chalkboard with the daily specials (on our visit Italian Wedding soup and Pulled Pork sandwich), along with the extensive menu listings overhead: breakfast sandwiches, hot and cold hero sandwiches, fresh salads, soups, grilled paninis, Italian specialty dishes, and much more. A glance at the menu reveals there are unique items beyond the range of staple selections. And the deli serves beer and wine to quaff.

The Fix NY Deli offers Boar's Head brand meats and cheeses to take home and also caters parties (min. 10 people) offering: antipasto, cold cuts, crudités (fresh garden veggies and cheeses), verdure (grilled, marinated veggies), and more. Open Monday through Saturday 7 a.m.—7 p.m.