Old Stein Inn
Gilles & Kathy Syglowski
Old Stein Inn
1143 Central Avenue
Edgewater, MD 21037
(410) 798-6807
www.oldstein-inn.comWhen to Enjoy: Wed., Thurs. & Sun. 4–9 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 4–10 p.m.
Expect to Pay: Appetizers $5–10, Soups & Salads $5–10, Entrees & Wurst Platters $13–25, Beer Selection $4–6
It had been a number of years since our last review of the Old Stein Inn and although we thoroughly enjoyed our first visit, our most recent experience was sublime! Thanks to new Chef Dirrk Dressen, a couple new dishes have made their way onto the menu in addition to popular staples. Dressen is “fresh off the boat,” as Old Stein’s owner Michael Selinger would say, having traveled around the world cooking, before arriving in the United States three years ago in Florida. He has been at the helm of Old Stein’s kitchen for about one year. He loves traditional, delicious, Old World German cooking, but is not shy to tell you that he strives to perfect a more innovative German cuisine.
The decor has not changed and that’s perfectly fine by our account. The comfortable homey feel was instant when we stepped through the front door, greeting us in a nice rustic, traditional bier stub atmosphere. If the Giants/Packers football game had not been televised during our visit, we could have easily imagined we were dining abroad.
Chatting with Selinger, I was wondering what was new. He mentioned that the bier garden was doing great: from May through October there will be constant entertainment (more planned than ever before) and the beer menu featuring a hefty choice of 10 brews on tap and 30 bottled. Selinger also mentioned that the wine list has expanded. Not only that you will find the perfect German wine but also adventuresome wines from California, Austria, Oregon, and South Africa, among others. I was stunned but there is a story behind the expanded wine selections from other parts of the world—while those wines are not from Germany, each has a German background, whether it is the grape, the producer, or some other characteristic. Kathy made a great choice with the wine; a Riesling Kabinett ($18) from the Saar Mosel region—a semi dry, light fruit wine that was easy on the palate.
Accompanied by friends that we have not seen since last year, Lois and Jay, and our daughter Katie with her friend Frank, this visit was spur of the moment and perfect because we got to try a lot! For starters, the Muenster cheese crab soup ($7) was a delight—it won second place at the 2007 Maryland Seafood Festival. Of course, we had to have the assorted wurst platter ($7), which is always a treat and served with real stone ground mustard as an accompaniment. We also sampled the potato pancakes with sour cream ($5), which were heavenly, as well as one of the evening’s specials—mac and cheese seafood appetizer ($12). It was simply excellent with a blend of fresh shrimp, scallops, and crab, in a light cheese sauce—just scrumptious.
We continued to follow a path of decadence by sharing some perfectly prepared schnitzel Cordon Bleu ($19): tender pork escalope stuffed with cheese and ham, breaded, and gently pan-fried. As a teaser, the perfectly melted cheese was slowly oozing out after slicing. The sauerbraten ($20) was the best we’ve ever had: the beef practically melted in my mouth and the sauce was not too sweet, nor spicy. It was regal. We shared the Old Stein sampler platter ($24) featuring a soft pork wiener schnitzel, a beef rinder rolladen with a light smoky hint, and a Bavarian bratwurst. This is my recommendation if you can’t decide. With more local flair, the Chesapeake chicken ($20) was extremely well prepared, with jumbo lump crab, laced in a delicious, seasoned cream sauce. Frank did not want to share his jagerschnitzel ($20)—he said it was incredibly good. However, I have about 120 pounds on him, and so he shared. We all agreed it was very good: a tender pork cutlet, breaded, and topped with a flavorful “hunter” mushroom sauce. I must mention how generous the portions were—all entrees came with sides, including braised red cabbage and Kathy’s favorite, homemade spatzles.
At the end of our decadent path came the desserts. From our last visit I looked forward to this one: the silky, cheesecake topped with apples ($5), which was incredible. The traditional Linzer tort ($5) was also excellent, as was the chocolate hazelnut cake ($5).
You have to check out their Web site for a schedule of entertainment and visit Michael Selinger and his wife Beth for a great dinner!
Gilles Syglowski is a chef, culinary instructor, and food service consultant. He is a graduate of the Lycee d’Enseignement Professional Hotelier
in Metz, France. He currently works as the general manager of the Woman’s National Democratic Club in Washington, D.C. He and his wife, Kathy, a member of the International Wine Society, have more than 50 years’ experience in the restaurant industry.