Guide to Good Dining | Eastern Shore | May
Story By Monserrat Urena Photos by Tony lewis Jr.
Clearview at Horn’s Point
5650 Clearview Key | Cambridge, MD 21613 | 410-221-0521
Clearviewathornspoint.com
When to Enjoy: Open daily, 11 a.m.
Happy hour: Friday, 4–7 p.m.
Champagne Brunch: Sunday, 11 a.m.–2 p.m.
Expect to Pay: $6–30
There are several restaurants on Maryland’s Eastern Shore that boast attractive waterfront views. Clearview at Horn’s Point, however, has the best I have seen in a long time. Even the gray and rainy weather on the Saturday evening I paid a visit to the Cambridge establishment could not detract from the serenity and beauty of the Choptank River and surrounding area.
The restaurant’s interior is both sophisticated and comfortable. Its dark, hardwood floors and open dining area are a harmonious blend with the eye-catching bar, where several local patrons were enjoying a drink and a bite to eat when we arrived. Along with this, the restaurant’s many windows created a seamless line of view that welcomed the natural beauty of the waterfront.
My dining partner, Fred, and I were soon seated and immediately perused the wine list, which we found to be eclectic with a careful eye for quality. The beer selection was also admirable and covered a wide range of tastes, with local favorites such as Dogfish as well as classics like Guinness and Stella Atois, an aromatic Belgian beer. We opted for a bottle of FiveH, a delicate 2006 Riesling from Oregon with a sweet, lasting bouquet of tangerine and apricot.
Fallon, our server, was both welcoming and charming as she cheerfully guided us through the evening’s specials as well as the menu. To begin our meal, we each ordered an appetizer. Fred chose the caramelized onion and sausage pizza ($8) and I selected the smoked salmon rose ($9). Our dishes arrived shortly and were attractive in their presentation (almost geometric), which spoke well of the hands at work in the kitchen. We were particularly impressed with the smoked salmon slices that had been delicately crafted into the shape of a rose (thus the name). The salmon itself was pastrami spiced and served over a lightly tossed, creamy dill chopped salad with grilled ciabatta bread. The flavorful spice and soft texture of the salmon paired nicely with the ciabatta and crisp greens. Fred’s pizza, with its crispy flatbread crust covered with caramelized onions, was delicious. The peppery arugula garnish complemented the sweetness of the chicken sausage and subtle flavor of the truffle oil.
For our entrées, Fred decided to order one of the specials: a rockfish filet served on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach in a white wine sauce ($28). We both agreed that it was the best rockfish we’d ever eaten. Chef Paul Shiley’s focus on fresh local seafood could be tasted in the flaky-yet-firm rockfish. I chose the petite filet mignon ($25), which was grilled and set on a potato pancake, garnished with jumbo lump crab meat, and served with two sauces—one a rich, brown bordelaise and the other a creamy béarnaise. On the outside, the filet was perfectly caramelized and crisp; inside, the meat was tender, moist, and crimson. Every component of the dish was carefully planned to complement and heighten the flavor of the beef. Each entrée came with a choice of house or caesar salad. The attention detail, found in our previous dishes, was not lost. Both were both nicely prepared with fresh ingredients and delicious dressings that did not overpower the vegetables or the palate.
After finishing our entrées, we still had room for dessert. I chose a unique reinterpretation of the 1950s classic bananas foster. In this modern take, the ice cream and sautéed bananas were brought in a chocolate-dipped waffle cone with candied pecans and was rich and creamy with a strong taste of brown sugar. Fred ordered an ice cream martini: two scoops of ice cream in a tall martini glass with a choice of liqueur. He selected the Chambord and marveled at the delicious simplicity and elegance of the dessert.
Simplicity and elegance are very much at the heart of Clearview at Horn’s Point. It is an elegance, however, that exudes comfort and invites you to savor every bite of your meal. This was, for me, the pleasure of simplicity done well. I highly recommend Clearview at Horn’s Point for dinner or any special event. The ambiance is welcoming and the food is admirably conceived and presented. It all comes together in perfect harmony and speaks well of Chef Shiley’s years of culinary experience. I look forward to returning, as some experiences are definitely worth repeating.
Eastern Shore Dining
Clearview at Horn's Point
Cambridge Maryland
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