Review: Jalapenos
By Gilles Syglowski
Jalapeños
85 Forest Drive, Annapolis • 410-266-7580 •
jalapenosonline.com
What an exciting time to have the opportunity to revisit Jalapeños! Armed with a
delightful entourage, Celia and our dear friend Sandy, I believed that dinner would
offer great culinary satisfaction, accentuated with sparkling flavors.
Upon entering the restaurant you’ll immediately forget the standard outside environment
(shopping center) and maybe even look for your passport. The decor and ambiance
have the feel of Latin America and Spain—a soothing oasis. Gonzalo Fernandez, one of
the owners, takes great pride in maintaining the Spanish flair: rough walls in warm ochre,
beautiful stone-like floor tiles, all finely outlined with black rough iron railings and gorgeous
red wood furniture. Gonzalo himself greeted us and made sure we were comfortably
seated. Leslie, our server and a 7-year veteran of Jalapeños, took over from there and
really did an impressive job.
My main focus was to enjoy an array of tapas to begin our little escape. On several
occasions my companion and I have visited other restaurants and truly appreciated the
tapas idea. Here is one explanation of its
history: according to legend the tapas tradition
began when King Alfonso X of
Castile, or Alfonso the Wise, recovered
from an illness by drinking wine served
with small dishes between meals. After
regaining his health the king ordered that
taverns not serve wine to customers unless
the beverage was accompanied by a small
snack or tapa. The word became a kind of
loophole in the law to allow drinkers to
imbibe alcohol. Tapas evolved over Spain’s
history through the incorporation of
ingredients and influences from many different
cultures and countries. Most of the
Iberian Peninsula was invaded by the
Romans, who introduced the olive and
irrigation methods. The invasion of the
North African Moors in the eighth century
brought almonds, citrus fruits, and fragrant
spices. The influence of their 700-
year presence remains today, especially in
Andalusia. The discovery of the New
World brought the introduction of tomatoes,
sweet and chili peppers, maize (corn),
beans, and potatoes. These were readily
accepted and easily grown in Spain’s
microclimates.
So our time had come to taste tapas
and put Chef Obed, who is from Mexico
and a faithful member of Jalapeños’ staff
since its opening 10 years ago, to the test.
In ordering our tapas we mixed flavors,
textures, and origins. The tamales, a
favorite, were rightly done. The croquetas, a
Spanish classic made of seasoned chicken
with béchamel, breaded and deep fried,
were scrumptious. The gambas (large
shrimp) were, for me, the most exciting:
very rich in garlic and zesty. The Filete de
Buey con Cabrales was succulent, with tender
slices of strip loin steak with wine
cream sauce. The Surdito de Vegetales, a
mix of artichokes, mushrooms, hearts of
palm, pimentos, and spinach in a sherrybutter
sauce, was a great palate cleanser. Of
course the traditional empanadas were up
to par as well. The Ceviche Levantino (a
raw seafood dish actually cooked over time
by highly acidic brine) was a bit different
from expected, with a blended citrus sauce
with notes of garlic and cilantro; nevertheless,
it was refreshing. And finally the calamares
fritos (soft calamari fried and served
with a picante sauce) proved to be one of
our favorites, finishing our first course with
just the right touch. What a treat that was.
Anyone in their right mind would have
stopped there but we did not; we carefully
selected two entrées to share. The Trucha
Campesina (filet of trout) was delicious:
gently sautéed with capers and Serrano
ham laces, all in a light white wine and
lemon sauce. When first looking over the
menu I spotted a dish that I haven’t had in
years: zarzuela. If I am not mistaken, this is
as traditional to Spain as paella. A blend of
seafood, predominantly mussels, is quickly
braised in a sauce of olive oil, garlic, fresh
tomatoes, a touch of brandy, and paprika,
and then finished with saffron. It was excellent.
I was looking to spice it up a little, so
Gonzalo himself prepared us a wonderful
pimento sauce to accompany the dish.
Although we were already satisfied, we
always finish with dessert. We buzzed with
delight as we enjoyed the banana cheesecake
served with deep-fried plantains, a
smooth citrus flan, and a buñuelo (fried
tortilla with vanilla ice cream laced with
caramel, whipped cream, and cinnamon).
As for the wines, Jalapeños offers a mostly
imported list of wines from Latin America
and Spain, but has a wonderful list of classic
domestics as well. Whether you hop in for a
few tapas during their daily happy hour or
enjoy a multicourse lunch or dinner, you
will be well taken care of with great food;
great service; and, of course, Gonzalo’s
wonderful hospitality.
Gilles Syglowski is a certified executive chef,
a certified culinary instructor, and a food service
consultant. He is a graduate of the Lycee
d’Enseignement Professionel Hotelier in Metz,
France. He is currently the assistant general
manager of the Cosmos Club in Washington,
D.C. Mr. Syglowski has more than 30 years of
experience in the hospitality industry.
Jalapeños
Annapolis Dining
Restaurant Review
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