Review: The Bartlett Pear Inn
By Doug and Christine O'Connor
Photos by Tony Lewis, Jr
Local rockfish fillet with vierge basil pesto from the Bartlett Pear Inn.
- When to Enjoy: Daily Dinner: 5:30–10 p.m. Lounge opens at 5:00 p.m.
- Expect to Pay: Appetizers: $8–14
Lounge menu: $3–11
Dinner entrées: $26 average
Desserts: $11 average
- Owners: Jordan and Alice Lloyd
Executive Chef: Jordan Lloyd
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Eighteen years ago, Jordan Lloyd worked at the now-closed Café 25 in Easton and dreamed of opening his own restaurant. In the intervening years, he graduated from culinary school and worked for various celebrity chefs in Washington, D.C., and New York City. He and his wife, Alice, have now returned to the Eastern Shore and revived the space vacated by The Inn at Easton, which, despite closing its doors, left a legacy that lived on even as the building laid dormant.
We recently had the pleasure of dining in the fulfillment of Lloyd’s dream, the Bartlett Pear Inn. Arriving a bit earlier than our reservation time on a Sunday evening, just three weeks after the restaurant opened, we decided to have a drink in the lounge. It’s an intimate space overlooking the large front porch, with five stools at the granite-topped bar, as well as three tables, where guests can order from a light bar menu of appetizers and specialty drinks. We ordered one of our standards, a dry Grey Goose martini, and one of the house specialties: a Peartini made with Clear Creek Pear Brandy, Cointreau, and fresh lemon, rimmed with Tahitian vanilla sugar. Both were excellent, and the well-appointed bar was a great place to unwind before dinner.
When our table was ready, the hostess, Madeline, seated us in the main dining room. Our waiter, Michael, soon greeted us and explained that there were no specials that evening as the kitchen staff was concentrating on preparing all menu items to perfection. Specials will become a fixture in the future.
Jordan Lloyd, owner and executive chef, on the patio of the Bartlett Pear Inn.
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We ordered appetizers from a selection that included country inn-made pate with grainy mustard, cornichon, and pearl onion ($11), and steamed mussels in saffron-Dijon cream ($12). Christine chose the garbure, a French country soup with duck crépinette and carrot ($8), and Doug opted for the lettuce crab ($14), which Michael described as a bed of Bibb lettuce with jumbo lump crabmeat and mussels in a creamy vinaigrette.
While awaiting our appetizers, we reviewed the menu and wine list. Christine decided she’d order the zucchini-crusted salmon served with tomato confit and sweet onion ($25). Doug selected the charred filet mignon with classic au poivre sauce and haricot verts ($32). While discussing which wine to order, we enjoyed the fresh baguettes with silky-smooth herb butter that Michael had brought to the table. Though we generally prefer to save room for the primary courses, the baguettes smelled too good to pass up.
Our appetizers arrived shortly thereafter, with Michael assembling the soup tableside. The bowl arrived with a small duck crépinette, and Michael poured the pureed broth and carrots into it before sprinkling the top with fresh herbs. Doug’s lettuce crab included at least a half pound of jumbo lump crabmeat, and four or five mussels. The soup was robust, with powerful duck flavor imparted throughout. There were enough of both the crabmeat and mussels to share, and we loved the simple and delicious concept of the lettuce crab.
We discussed the wine list with Michael, who helped solve our dilemma by suggesting two wonderful selections available by the glass. Christine ordered a glass of Pavilion Chardonnay ($8) to go with her salmon, and Doug chose a Moulin d’Argent Burgundy ($8) to go with his rare, charred filet. By this point in the evening, all 30 seats in the dining room were nearly full and a low buzz of conversation filled the air. Two small screened porches are adjacent to the dining room, one with seating for six guests and the other with a private two-top that would make for a romantic setting in warmer weather. A garden patio also offers outdoor seating for approximately 20 people. The restaurant would certainly accommodate plenty of guests during the height of tourist season.
Unlike the oversized portions served at most chain restaurants, we were pleasantly surprised by the perfect portions of our entrées—not too large, but definitely not like getting a selection from a small-plates menu. Christine’s salmon came crusted with thinly sliced zucchini and was perfectly moist, the tomato and sweet onions creating a perfect blend of flavor on the plate and adding an elegant note to the presentation. Doug’s filet was at least eight ounces and was draped with a light au poivre sauce. Served on a small bed of haricot verts and accompanied by a perfectly assembled stack of glazed pearl onions, the meat was cooked exactly as ordered.
Since we had eaten so well already, we both thought it best to split the Chapel Creamery “Talbot Reserve” fresh figs and pistachio bread for dessert. We ordered a French press of regular coffee and asked Michael if Jordan might have a few minutes to tell us about the rooms and his upcoming plans for the restaurant.
Jordan had enough time to visit with us while we enjoyed the pistachio bread with fig glaze drizzled on the plate and locally sourced cheese. (Chapel Creamery is on the outskirts of Easton on Chapel Road.) Jordan told us that he has two sous chefs, Donny and Paris, both of whom followed him here from his last executive chef job in Miami, via a stop in Washington, D.C. There are also several other culinary specialists who work with them in the kitchen, and Jordan proudly says they all work like a team that has been together for years. Based on the caliber of our meal, we had to agree with him. It’s hard to imagine the restaurant had been open for only three weeks at the time of our visit.
When we were done, Jordan gave us a tour of some of the Bartlett Pear Inn’s other features. A private meeting/dining room, which can comfortably seat 16, has a flat-panel monitor that can be used for presentations for business meetings or family reunions. All of the guest rooms were occupied, except for one on the top floor with a large, comfortable-looking bed, tall windows overlooking the street, and a spacious bathroom with a claw-foot tub and what looked like acres of hand-laid tile. We both thought this looked like a great destination for a romantic weekend, family reunion, or weekend getaway.
Jordan said that his first priority is taking care of the customers and making sure his staff is well-trained. Since he believes in supporting the local economy, he plans to source as many ingredients as possible from local farms and suppliers. In the future, he also plans on hosting chef lessons.
We were pleased with our experience and dinner at the Bartlett Pear Inn. Jordan Lloyd’s dream, which he’d had since age 12, will please restaurant-goers for years to come. Jordan and Alice can exult in their accomplishments, and we will recommend the Bartlett Pear Inn to everyone!
Doug O’Connor has over 20 years of experience as an executive chef and a food and beverage director, and is also involved with the Chesapeake Chefs Association. He graduated from Johnson & Wales University with degrees in culinary arts and food service management. Christine graduated from Johnson & Wales with a degree in hospitality management. They currently reside near Annapolis in Cape St. Claire with their two children.
Bartlett Pear Inn
Jordan Lloyd
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