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Silver Swan Restaurant
Queen Anne Marina, Congressional Drive, Stevensville
443-249-0400
website
by Gilles and Kathy Syglowski

With the twinkle of lights reflecting off the bay, the warmth of the fireplace, good friends and the impending holiday season, we were anticipating a splendid evening at the Silver Swan Restaurant. It was an extra bonus to be served one of the best meals we have enjoyed in the Maryland area.

Owner Kathy O'Boyle has taken an upscale restaurant that would be quite at home in New York or D.C. and transplanted it to Kent Island. The menu, atmosphere and the service were outstanding; it actually reminded us of Seeger's in Atlanta. We kept looking out the window to double-check where we were.

After O'Boyle purchased the restaurant previously known as Pelican Bay and made renovations-which were then removed by Tropical Storm Isabelle-she wasted no time procuring Swiss-born and trained Executive Chef Stephan Blaser. He has made the Silver Swan his home for the last 3 months, having lived in the United States for the past 14 years. Together, they managed to make our dining experience most memorable.

After our waiter, Charles, took our drink orders and chose a wonderful Hess Select Cabernet for me (the wine list was fabulous), Elisse, another member of our wonderful service team, presented an amuse bouche' of garlic laced baby potato. Then it was on to our appetizers, chosen from a delectable selection. The Silver Swan crab and corn chowder was my favorite, quite delicious. Equally fine were the Silver Swan salad, with blue cheese beignets on baby greens with spiced walnuts; Chevre goat cheese crostini, fresh Bartlett pears and roasted beets with a sherry vinaigrette-outstanding, and exquisite Brussels style mussels fresh from Prince Edward Island, gently steamed in white wine with garlic, roasted onions, tomatoes and a light Pernod cream sauce.

I had a hard time deciding on an entrée, so my friend Harold came to the rescue by selecting my second choice, the Kent Island Crab Cakes, while I opted for the Blue Crab and Asagio Ravioli, served on baby spinach with sorrel scented cream sauce and salmon caviar. (I like having the best of both worlds, and Has was willing to share his crab cakes with me.) His wife Cathy, also a chef, selected the Merlot Braised Veal Shank served with an herb polenta, root vegetables and an Alba style sauce. Gilles opted for the Pecan Crusted Rockfish, minus the pecans: a filet of farm-raised rockfish served with garlic mashed potatoes, root vegetables and roasted onion maple syrup butter sauce.

O'Boyle says she likes to change the menu every three to four days, which is really why Chef Blaser came to Silver Swan: he likes the creative freedom extended to him. She is currently working on a new wine list as well, though the current one looks like the one for my dream wine cellar.

Our desserts were just as wonderful. The crème Brule is now the best I have had. It was creamy smooth with a crisp top, and I could taste every egg. We also had the Tarte au Citron, traditionally made as you would find it in the Alps region: sweet and silky. For our stay-at-home daughter, we took a piece of frozen Chocolate Parfait, sinfully rich and creamy.

Still to come at Silver Swan is a patio which, once finished, will be able to accommodate a beautiful wedding come spring. The backdrop is gorgeous.

Silver Swan is located at Queen Anne Marina, five miles south of the Bay Bridge by boat, and even though it is off the beaten path, true food connoisseurs will find their way.