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Cheeburger Cheeburger
2329-B Forest Drive
Annapolis 21401
(410) 224-7297
Nadja Maril

If you're in the mood for a journey back in time to the 1950s, accompanied by a large juicy hamburger with all the fixings and a basket of crisp French fries, Cheeburger Cheeburger is certain to be able to satisfy your cravings. You'll be able to dine with the likes of Elvis Presley and James Dean, while sitting at a chrome-edged table and gazing at pink walls, colorful signs, and a border of neon lights. While the celebrities may be cardboard standups, the rest of the décor is genuine.

The motto of Cheeburger Cheeburger is "Big is Better." Consume their famous pounder, on the menu for $10.25, and your picture will be taken and placed on the Wall of Fame.

N.F.F. is one of the signs posted on the wall. The initials stand for Not Fast Food. While the fare on the menu may sound similar to some of the items available at fast food restaurants, the quality is quite different. Fresh-ground beef burgers are available with a variety of free-that's right free-toppings that include such gourmet delights as guacamole, chopped black olives, pineapples, and roasted red peppers. Then there are the standby favorites, which include two kinds of onion rings, salsa, and honey mustard. Garnishes such as tomatoes and onions are hand cut. Specialty toppings-bacon and sautéed mushrooms-are available for $.95.

Service is outstanding. During my visit, our mason jars filled with root beer and Pepsi were not allowed to stay empty for more than a few moments.

Other beverage choices include old-fashioned shakes and malts, for which they are famous, along with egg creams and floats. The extensive list of shake flavors includes yummy candy and desserts specialties such as Butterfinger, strawberry cheesecake, and chocolate covered banana, or you can create your own combinations.

But perhaps it's not a hamburger kind of day. There are plenty of other choices. All the toppings can be placed on a chicken sandwich. For the vegetarian there are two grilled portobello mushroom sandwiches to choose from and a veggie burger as well. Burger and sandwich prices start at $4.95. Grilled cheese and a BLT are $4.25.

The main dish salads on the menu also give you an opportunity to be creative. Starting with grilled or fried chicken, chopped beef, grilled portobello mushrooms, or a bed of mixed greens, you can add any combination of nine free toppings, which include artichoke hearts, shredded cheese, mandarin oranges, sun dried tomatoes, and crispy noodles. Main dish salads range in price from $5.95 to $8.95.

For many patrons it's the side dishes that make this restaurant so popular. Choices include fries, onion rings, a side salad, or frings-a combination of onion rings and fries.

Contrary to popular rumor, Cheeburger Cheeburger did not take its name from a Saturday Night Live television skit in which immigrant short-order cooks serve up "Chee-burgers." The name was adopted to convey what the restaurant most prevalently serves-cheeseburgers. Since trademarking a widely used word such as cheeseburger would have been difficult, Cheeburger was adopted as a replacement word.

The first restaurant, which opened on Sanibel Island, Florida, in 1986, was originally called Faces of Sanibel. Sales picked up dramatically with the new name, which helped to advertise the menu. While there are four other Cheeburger Cheeburger restaurants in Maryland, the popular restaurant continues to thread its way throughout the United States, with locations in Tennessee, Louisiana, Alabama, Nebraska, New York, Ohio, and Pennsylvania.

Annapolis Spirits
Slow Down-Look, Smell, Taste-
Awaken the Senses as You Host a Wine Tasting
By Patricia Dempsey

Hosting a midwinter wine tasting in your home means that in a few hours you and your guests can travel to one of the sunnier regions of the globe and slowly savor the sensory and cultural delights of a beverage that Ernest Hemmingway called "the most civilized thing in the world." While it can take years to acquire a master sommelier's knowledge of the subtle complexities of wine varietals, regions, and producers, little expertise-or cash-is needed to discover the simple, civilized pleasure of tasting and comparing wines in the company of good friends.

To plan a wine tasting, choose a few parameters common among all the wines to be tasted. For instance, focus the tasting on the same varietal (a wine bearing the name of the principal grape from which it is made), from different regions or countries, or the reverse-select different varietals from the same country. If this is to be a regular, monthly event, plan to travel around the world through certain varietals and countries, choosing wines that complement the season at hand. If the tasting is a one-time bash to offset the winter blues-and a diminished post-holiday budget-consider discovering the warm, hearty, and inexpensive wines of Spain.

Spain's wine history dates back more than 3000 years, but the industry suffered in the 20th century because of the isolation caused by the Spanish Civil War and the subsequent 40-year reign of Generalissimo Francisco Franco. When Spain fully rejoined the international community in the 1970s, the wine world had changed dramatically. Today Spanish wine has been transformed through a combination of factors, including new technology and an infusion of winemaking talent.

"New techniques being used in Spain combined with the unique characteristics of their climate and grapes are producing some excellent wines that these Spanish producers are eager to sell in the United States at affordable prices," says Patrick Boucoulat, owner of Wine Cellars of Annapolis. The changes in the production of wines in Spain allow regional producers greater freedom to produce wines of certain quality. These wines are being marketed at remarkable prices and are receiving high marks from discerning critics such as Robert Parker, whose tasting notes in his newsletter, The Wine Advocate, are respected throughout the world.

While France and Italy have seen declines in their amounts of vineyard land over the past 6 years, plantings have steadily increased across Spain. Vineyards now cover nearly 3 million acres of countryside. Working with native grape varieties, including Tempranillo, Verdejo, Albarino, Mencia, Monastrell, and Garnacha (Grenache), in emerging regions, such as Toro, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Rías Baixas, Bierzo, Jumilla, and Priorat, Spanish wine makers are creating exciting new discoveries. Here are six wines from Spain, in a similar price range ($7.99 to $13.99), to be tasted in the order presented here-the delicate white first, followed by the wines of increasing boldness, with the most robust as the finale.

1. 2004 Doña Beatriz Verdejo (Rueda, Spain)-A young wine from the Rueda region. The Verdejo grape, which produces fragrant white wines with a strong fruity character, is]the Spanish Sauvignon Blanc but is slightly more fragrant, intense, fruity, and vibrant, with hints of tropical fruit and aniseed and a refreshing acidity and citrus taste. ($10.99)
2. 2004 Nora Albarino (Rías Baixas, Spain)-A delicious amber-colored wine from the Galicia region's legendary Albarino grape, grown in the northwest of Spain and thought to be a descendant of the Reisling grapes once imported to the region by German monks. Because Albarinos are seldom barrel fermented, the flavors are clean and vibrant. This wine is full-bodied with aromas of peach, honeysuckle, apple, and hazelnut; a long-lasting finish; flavors of pears, apricots, lemon, and honeysuckle; and moderate acidity. ($13.99)
3. 2004 Senorio de Barahonda Carro (Yecla, Spain)-A blend of 50 percent Mourvèdre, 20 percent Syrah, 20 percent Tempranillo, and 10 percent Merlot grown in gravel and limestone soils. Has low acidity and rich flavors of black cherry, mountain berry, fruit, and chocolate. Tank fermented and aged. ($7.99)
4. 2004 Panarroz Jumilla-A rich bargain from the semiarid southeastern region of Spain. A medium-bodied blend of 42 percent Mourvèdre, 38 percent Garnacha (Grenache), and 20 percent Syrah. Sweet aroma of chocolate, blackberries, cherries, and earth and a savory, long finish. Tank fermented and aged. Ideal for drinking over the next few years. ($7.99)
5. 2003 Los Planos Syrah (Cariñena, Spain)-Made from 15-year-old vines, this 100 percent Syrah has aromas of coconut, raspberries, plums, figs, nuts, vanilla, and violets and is made from grapes grown in a north-facing, hillside vineyard planted in granite and schist. A medium-bodied, soft, chocolatey Syrah, it has aromas of white chocolate, smoke, and blackberry. Ideal for drinking over the next few years. ($10.99)
6. 2003 Perlat Unio (Montsant, Spain)-A well-priced wine from the northeast of Spain in the region of Catalonia, with a robust blend of Garnacha (Grenache ), Cariñena, and Syrah. This wine has rich flavors of black cherry, blueberry, and plums and a touch of herbs. Syrah was once thought to have originated near the city of Shiraz in Persia and it is speculated that crusaders brought the grape to Spain from the Middle East. However, there are also theories that the grape is indigenous to Spain, the same grape used by the Romans thousands of years ago in the region. Garnacha is believed to have originated in Spain, as did Cariñena. ($11.99)

Now that the wines are selected, invite the optimum number of guests-12 or fewer. This keeps conversation among one group and allows for the fact that each taste is approximately 2 ounces. Depending on how heavy-handed the pouring, there are about 10-12 tastes per bottle-this means you can accommodate 10-12 guests with one bottle of each wine being tasted.

Traditionally wine is tasted without food except unsalted crackers or French bread and fresh water on hand to cleanse the palate. A mild cheese such as mozzarella also works well. The idea is to not overpower the delicate essences of certain wines. For this initial wine tasting focus simply on the wine, and save the strong flavors of food for a meal served afterwards. Once you become knowledgeable about various regions and varietals, then move on to tastings that pair wines with foods.

The materials needed include glasses, tulip-shaped for the white wines and rounded, bowl-shaped for the reds. The shape of the glass helps preserve the wine's bouquet. Have either a clean glass for each wine or a pitcher of water nearby to rinse glasses between tastes. You'll need a spitting bucket for those who prefer to spit rather than swallow each taste.

Provide paper and pen for tasting notes and a sheet with information on each wine being tasted and tips on what to look for when tasting a wine. You can develop a common language of taste and smell by providing descriptors for wine characteristics and essences. But don't expect everyone to agree-this is part of the fun-since tasting notes are as personal and subjective as one's taste buds and sense of smell.

As host, choose whether to introduce each wine with descriptions of the wine on tasting sheets, as mentioned above, or make things lively and do the tasting "blind": cover the bottles with paper bags and ask guests to jot down their tasting notes without any preconceptions about the wine's price, variety, producer, or country.

"Regardez, scentez, gouter,"-look, smell, taste-as the French do to fully enjoy and experience the wine. First, look at the wine by holding it up against a light background, such as a white wall, to observe its color and clarity. Swirl the wine to look at its legs-rivulets that curl up inside the glass-a clue to its texture. Is the wine clear? What color? Thick or thin? It should be clear, not cloudy, and should have intense color, resulting from the contact of juice with the grape skins during wine making. White wines, such as the Doña Beatriz Verdejo, or a Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Grigio, may appear light green, clear, straw yellow, gold, or even brown. Sweeter white wines, such as the Nora Albarino, generally start off with a deeper shade of yellow. Red wines, such as Panarroz Jumilla, Los Planos Syrah, and Senorio de Barahonda, may be ruby red or purple; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Pinot Noir may be purple, ruby, brick red, or brownish red. As red wine ages, it loses color and takes on a brick-brown hue.

A majority of our sense of taste is linked to our sense of smell, so savor this step. Swirl the wine in the glass and allow oxygen to release the aromas as the wine breathes. Put your nose in the glass, inhale, and smell the essences. A wine's bouquet refers to scents that result from wine-making decisions, such as aging in oak barrels, while aroma refers to smells associated with the grape variety. These aromas and flavors shape a wine's taste. A single glass of wine has dozens of essences, so take it slowly as you savor them.

Now write down the first associations you have. What is the first smell you identify-freshly mowed grass, pipe tobacco, nuts, caramel, oak, smoke, earth, mold, sulfur, floral, citrus, spice, berry, fruity, chocolate, herbs? Start by brainstorming associations-there is no "right" answer since describing a wine can be as subjective as your sense of smell and taste. But describing a wine does require moving from the general descriptor of the essence to being more specific. What type of nut, berry, or herb does it taste like? Is it more like hazelnut, black cherry, and lavender? Or chocolate, caramel, or honey? Memory and smell are closely linked in the human brain, so these first associations often are the ones that are particularly powerful and most distinctly remembered long after you finish a wine.

Essences that are common to white wines include scents such as apple, oak, vanilla, grapefruit, melon, lemon, banana, violet, orange blossom, fresh grass, hazelnut, honey, and butterscotch. Essences common to red wines include scents such as black currant, vanilla, licorice, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, cherry, fig, soy sauce, green olive, chocolate, molasses, tobacco, prune, tea, rose, cedar, cola, cloves, and allspice.

Taste the wine by first swishing it so all of your taste buds and your sense of smell can identify the finer, more subtle flavors of the wine. Roll the wine over your tongue; observe how it feels in your mouth. Is it thin, heavy, and velvety? Is the wine balanced, acidic, sweet? A balanced wine has a harmonious blend of aroma, acid, tannin, fruit, and sweetness. An acidic wine is pleasantly tart. Swallow or spit and note the wine's predominant qualities. Record tasting notes on the wine's finish as well. What kind of taste does the wine leave in your mouth after you have swallowed, and how long does it last? A clean, crisp, yet lingering, balanced finish is the mark of a good quality wine.

Despite the exclusivity that is often associated with being a wine connoisseur, learning about wine is actually wonderfully democratic. You can go directly to the source, the wine, and compare and taste. Each tasting creates a reference point for appreciating the really delightful discoveries-such as the warm savory wines of Spain-when they come along.

Patricia Dempsey is a writer and editor who lives and works in Annapolis.

A Glossary of Wine-Tasting Terms:

• Acidity: Describes a tart or sour taste in the mouth when total acidity of the wine is high.
• Acrid: Describes a wine with overly pronounced acidity. This is often apparent in cheap red wines.
• Aftertaste: The taste or flavors that linger in the mouth after the wine is tasted, spit, or swallowed. May be harsh, hot, soft, lingering, short, smooth, or nonexistent. See also Finish.
• Aroma: Usually refers to the particular smell of the grape variety.
• Balanced: Indicates that the fruit, acid, and wood flavors are in the right proportion. A wine is well balanced when none of those characteristics dominates.
• Big: Describes a wine that is full-bodied, rich, and slightly alcoholic tasting.
• Bite: A marked degree of acidity or tannin. An acid grip in the finish should be more like a zestful tang and is tolerable only in a rich, full-bodied wine.
• Bitter: One of the four basic tastes. Considered a fault if the bitterness dominates the flavor or aftertaste. A trace in sweet wines may complement the flavors. In young red wines it can be a warning signal, as bitterness doesn't always dissipate with age. A fine, mature wine should not be bitter on the palate.
• Body: The weight of wine in your mouth; commonly expressed as full-bodied, medium-bodied or medium-weight, or light-bodied.
• Bouquet: A tasting term used to describe the smell of the wine as it matures in the bottle.
• Buttery: Refers to both flavor and texture or mouthfeel.
• Character: Describes a wine with top-notch distinguishing qualities.
• Chewy: Describes rich, heavy, tannic wines that are full-bodied.
• Closed: Describes wines that are concentrated and have character, but have less aroma or flavor.
• Complex: Describes a wine that combines all flavor and taste components in almost miraculous harmony.
• Corked: Describes a wine that tastes of cork and is unpleasant to smell and taste, slightly musty.
• Crisp: Denotes a fresh, young, wine with good acidity.
• Delicate: Used to describe light- to medium-weight wines with good flavors.
• Dense: Describes a wine that has concentrated aromas on the nose and palate, desirable in young wines.
• Depth: Describes the complexity and concentration of flavors in a wine. Generally refers to a quality wine with subtle layers of flavor that go deep.
• Earthy: Describes a wine that tastes of soil, most common in red wines. Can be used both positively-adding complexity to aroma and flavor-and negatively-barnyard, dirt quality.
• Fading: Describes a wine that is losing color, fruit, or flavor, usually as a result of age.
• Finish: The taste that remains in the mouth after swallowing. A long finish indicates a wine of good quality.
• Flabby: Describes a lack of acidity on the palate.
• Flinty: Describes the aroma or taste of some white wines; like the odor of flint striking steel.
• Fruity: Describes any quality referring to the body and richness of a wine, usually implies a little extra sweetness.
• Heady: Used to describe the smell of a wine high in alcohol.
• Legs: The viscous droplets that form and ease down the sides of the glass when the wine is swirled.
• Length: The amount of time the sensations of taste and aroma persist after swallowing.
• Mouthfeel: How a wine feels in the mouth and against the tongue.
• Oxidized: Describes stale or off wines.
• Palate: The feel and taste of wine in the mouth.
• Perfumed: Refers to a delicate bouquet.
• Round: Describes a wine well balanced in fruit, tannins, and body.
• Short: Describes a wine that does not remain on the palate after swallowing.
• Simple: Describes a wine with few characteristics that follow the initial impression. Not necessarily unfavorable; often describes an inexpensive, young wine.
• Smoky: Describes a subtle woodsmoke aroma.
• Soft: Describes a wine with low acid or tannin, or alcohol content with little impact on the palate.
• Spicy: Describes the presence of spice flavors such as anise, cinnamon, cloves, mint, and pepper, often present in complex wines.
• Supple: Describes a wine with well-balanced tannins and fruit characteristics.
• Tannin: Describes a dry sensation, with flavors of leather and tea.
• Tart: Describes a sharp taste resulting from acidity.
• Thin: Describes a lack of body and depth.
• Toasty: Describes a hint of the wooden barrel. Usually associated with dry white wines.
• Velvety: Having rich flavor and a silky texture.