Lewnes’ Steakhouse 401 Fourth Street Annapolis, MD 21401 (410) 263-1617 www.lewnessteakhouse.com By Gilles and Kathy Syglowski
The history and legacy of Lewnes’ Steakhouse can be traced back to New York City in 1906. At the age of 14, Sam Lewnes set foot in the city, hailing from a small town in Greece. As a young boy in Brooklyn, he found work as a pin boy in a bowling alley and then sold peanuts and popcorn from a pushcart. After a few years he moved south to Annapolis, at the urging of his first cousin.
Lewnes’ long history is fascinating, but in short, after countless renovations and name changes of the restaurant, Charlie (Sam’s grandson); his wife, Pam; and their two sons, Sam and Mack, eventually bought the restaurant from their Uncle Louie. In 1989, after extensive remodeling, Sam’s Corner reopened, named in honor of Sam Lewnes, the man who 83 years earlier had begun the family’s American dream.
Today the restaurant is a charming two-story building styled after a New York chop house or steak house, dominated by cherry-red bead boards and black leather booths. Many old Annapolis photographs cover the walls, adding to the attractive coziness of the restaurant. The bar and a dining room occupy the first floor; we were seated in the dining room upstairs, in a plush booth. The feeling was very intimate.
Kevin, our fantastic waiter, introduced us to the specials for the evening. We were glad the list was short—a couple variations of staples that were easy to remember and within the style of the menu.
Since it was just three of us—our daughter Kate, Kathy, and me—we shared two appetizers. The clams casino ($8.95) was served sizzling hot and moist and was rich in Parmesan cheese. A black bean soup ($4.25), served with chopped onions and plain cooked rice, was good but perhaps needed a little more body.
We each enjoyed the famous Spiro’s Greek salad ($6.95), which was fantastic, with crisp iceberg lettuce; traditional ingredients; and small, diced marinated potatoes. As for the entrees, of course we stuck with steaks. Lewnes’ offers U.S. Prime aged beef only. The United States produces some of the best beef in the world, thanks to the hard work of generations of cattle producers committed to raising the highest-quality beef. The cattle are fed a diet rich in corn, resulting in steaks with remarkable flavor. Studies have shown that corn-based diets are superior in producing marbling in cattle, and marbling is where beef gets its flavor. Marbling levels translate, along with animal age, into a quality grade such as U.S. Prime.
And the beef aging process is by no means new. Before the days of vacuum-sealed product (wet-aged), most beef and lamb were dry-aged out of necessity. In a very cold, clean, humidity-controlled room, with ample circulation, dry-aged beef and lamb is created. This special process extracts 10-15 percent of the moisture while breaking down the muscle’s connective tissues, which produces a silky and slightly nutty, full-flavored meat. Only 2 percent of cattle production is good enough for this appellation.
Kate and Kathy had the petite filet mignon ($27.95). Kathy added a crab cake (one of the specials for the night, for $15.95), while I chose the NY strip ($32.95). All three steaks were cooked perfectly and finished with a touch of melted butter on top. Each was tasty and tender and reflected the quality promised. Kathy’s crab cake was outstanding as well—prepared with lump crab only, gently seasoned, and cooked until light and flaky. Our entreés were accompanied by delicious homemade French fries and George’s (Sam’s eldest son’s) special creamed spinach.
We chatted with Paul Miguez, the general manager. Lewnes’ opened its dining room extension in January. Asked whether they do anything special, such as tastings or other events, he explained that Lewnes’ would rather focus on what they do best and maintain that quality. Miguez has been at Lewnes’ for 7 years and is a graduate of Johnson & Wales University, formerly in Charlestown, South Carolina. Lester Snowden has been head chef at Lewnes’ for 13 years and his experience suits the establishment perfectly. Miguez enjoys introducing him to customers.
The wine list is voluminous and varying in choices and prices, with an emphasis on value. The Silverado Merlot ($11.95 per glass) proved an excellent pairing to our meals. We finished dinner by sharing a wonderful and delicious Key lime pie—the perfect end to an exquisite dining experience.
Gilles Syglowski is a chef, culinary instructor, and food service consultant. He is a graduate of the Lycee d’Enseignement Professional Hotelier in Metz, France. He and his wife, Kathy, a member of the International Wine Society, have more than 50 years’ experience in the restaurant industry.
To present good Chinese food, a restaurant needs cooks with expertise in the regional cuisines that are featured, according to Catalina Choy, manager and an owner of Hunan L’ Rose in Odenton.
Hunan L’ Rose has a menu that reflects the kitchen staff’s training in Cantonese, Hunan, and Szechwan styles. Owners Wing Chee Choy (her husband) and Zhi Lin Xu serve as the supervising cooks and combine more than 50 years’ experience with those regional culinary styles.
The Choys opened Hunan L’ Rose in l992. Previously they had owned Chinese restaurants in the Washington-Baltimore area and in Peru, Catalina Choy’s native country. They and Xu are partners with two others, Mei Q. Chen and Paul Choy, who also work at Hunan L’ Rose.
As is typical at Chinese restaurants, the menu is extensive. Whether ordering carryout or eating in the 120-seat dining room, you will find nearly 150 luncheon items and even more dinner options.
“We have a very complete menu,” Mrs. Choy says. You can enjoy the mild and simple tastes of Cantonese or spicy sensations of Hunan and Szechwan foods with selections of chicken, beef, pork, shrimp, scallops, vegetables, or combinations. The dinner menu also offers several ways to enjoy lamb, squid, lobster, fish, duck, and crabmeat.
Peking two delight, with shrimp and scallops sautéed in garlic sauce with an assortment of complementing vegetables, and lemon chicken are two Cantonese favorites. Sliced beef sautéed with vegetables in a spicy brown sauce is one of the many top-selling Hunan-style dishes. Baby shrimp sautéed with ginger and tomato sauce and a fish filet are among the popular Szechwan choices.
Variety is one of the reasons people like Chinese food, Mrs. Choy comments. “You can eat it every day of the week and have something different each time.” She emphasizes it has another important benefit. “It provides a key to good health—a diet that is balanced with the proper amounts of meats and vegetables.” As they custom prepare all orders, the Hunan L’ Rose staff uses various cooking methods—including steaming, often requested by patrons who are watching calories, and stir-frying.
There are several advantages to stir-frying, Mrs. Choy explains. It’s fast and efficient and it seals in juices and flavor, maintains the natural color and crispness of vegetables, and allows foods to retain nutritional value.
Recommending stir-frying for home cooking, Choy says you can prepare a complete and balanced meal using your favorite ingredients in a matter of minutes and with a minimal amount of cleanup. She offers the following tips for stir-frying:
Mrs. Choy shares with What’s Up? Annapolis an easy-to-prepare stir-fry recipe for beef and broccoli. It is similar to one used by the Hunan L’ Rose cooks and one she likes to prepare at home.
Stir-Fry Beef and Broccoli (Serves 1–2)
Ingredients: 1 cup beef loin or flank steak 1 clove garlic (peeled and chopped) 2 cups broccoli 1/4 cup water salt 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon white cooking wine
For marinade: 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon cornstarch pinch of salt 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
For sauce: 1/4 tsp. sugar 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon cornstarch 5 teaspoons water
For additional flavor, add 1 teaspoon oyster sauce to the sauce ingredients.
Preparation:
Mix the sauce ingredients in a bowl and set aside. Slice the beef into small pieces and coat it with the marinade of soy sauce, cornstarch, a pinch of salt, and vegetable oil. Marinate for 10 minutes. Cut the broccoli into small pieces and blanch in a pot of boiling water that has a bit of salt. Cook on medium heat for about 2 minutes. Remove the broccoli and rinse it immediately in cold water. Drain and allow to dry. Heat 2 teaspoons of oil in a preheated wok or skillet. (However, if you are using a nonstick skillet, add the oil without preheating.) Add the garlic and then the beef slices and stir-fry over medium heat until the meat is brown. Add broccoli, a pinch of salt, and white wine and stir-fry. Add 1/4 cup of water, cover the pan, and continue cooking, covered, until the food is done to your preference. Uncover the pan, stir the sauce, and add it gradually to the beef and broccoli while stir-frying constantly. Cook the food quickly over high heat, mixing well. Remove from heat and serve immediately over boiled rice.
Barbara McGarry is an Annapolis-based freelance writer and editor with journalism degrees from the University of Missouri.
A taste of New York City and so much more
Are you still searching for a local delicatessen that offers big city–style sandwiches, stuffed to the max, for half the cost of a sit-down lunch? Look no further than the Fix NY Deli, a charming and quite new deli with a menu that’s full of hearty sandwich fare, but that also offers unique house specialty dishes. Here your dollar will go the distance.
Located on Main Street at South River Colony, the Fix NY Deli occupies a comfortable space between unique gift and service shops. If you’re window-shopping at the Colony, the deli could be your quick fix for a bite to eat along the way. Inside, rich wood flooring and cherrywood-colored furniture blend together, creating a cozy and clean dining area on the left side. To the right, a small but handsome display of Italian specialty items for sale (pastas, sauces, olive oils, and more) gives way to displays of sodas (avg. $1), juices (avg. $1.69), and craft beers—both imported and domestic (avg. $3.25). The rear of the deli is where you order. There you’ll notice the daily specials blackboard, listing yummy concoctions fit for hungry customers.
During a recent visit on a mild winter afternoon, the blackboard special read Cajun turkey sandwich and the deli was also offering Buffalo wings. I opted for a grilled panini sandwich, the Cross Island, consisting of oven-roasted sliced turkey breast and peppered bacon enhanced by a smoked tomato relish. The sandwich was served toasty hot and crisp. Bigger than I expected, it was a mouthful but delicious, and worth every cent of the $5.50 spent. I grabbed a bag of the hottest potato chips on Earth—habañero potato chips appropriately titled Mama Zuma’s Revenge ($1.19)—of which I tearingly enjoyed only one chip. Good but much too hot to eat all in one sitting. Other side options include pasta salad, marinated veggies, soups, potato knishes, raviolis, and much more ($1.79 and up).
The Fix NY Deli uses only Boar’s Head brand meats and cheeses, which are top quality. And with a variety of cold and hot hero sandwich selections to choose from, in addition to the grilled paninis, even the most selective sandwich connoisseur will be appeased. Take, for example, the catfish po’boy ($5.75)—fried catfish, lettuce, tomato, and Cajun remoulade served on fresh-baked bread. That’s Southern satisfaction in one bite. The chicken cutlet Parmigiano ($5.75), by contrast, will fulfill your longing for Italian fare, which the Fix NY Deli makes quite adeptly. In addition to multiple takes on Italian sandwiches, the house specialties are Italian in essence and mixed with exotic touches that really jazz them up. Penne ala vodka ($7) features what the menu calls “untouchable” pink sauce finished with Absolut vodka and grated Parmesan cheese. Linguini with jalapeño clam sauce ($7.50) is addictively spicy. Chicken roulade features a garlic- and spinach-stuffed chicken cutlet with roasted peppers and mozzarella cheese, finished with a white wine demi-glace sauce—it’s hard to believe but the dish is one of the most expensive items on the menu at only $8.25.
Chesapeake favorites, such as Maryland lump crab cakes ($8.50) and shrimp salad sandwich ($7.25), are thoughtfully offered as well. But if salads are what you seek, the deli has you covered, with tempting arrangements that use fresh ingredients. The grilled portobello mushroom salad ($4.75), for example, features its namesake paired with roasted tomatoes, goat cheese croutons, mixed baby greens, and balsamic vinaigrette.
In addition to offering daily fare, the Fix NY Deli is available to cater your next party (minimum 10 people, $3.25–5 per person). Though many options are available, the deli specializes in antipasti, cold cut platters, crudités (fresh garden veggies), verdure (marinated veggies), fresh fruits, and desserts. The Fix NY Deli is open Monday through Saturday 7 a.m.–7 p.m. and closed Sundays.
Simply put, The Fix NY Deli is a delicatessen that’s home away from home.
—James Houck
