Maria's Ravioli Florentina.

12 Market Space

Annapolis , MD 21401

(410) 268-2112

www.mariasristorante.com

by Gilles and Kathy Syglowski

Although there is a large array of Italian and Mediterranean restaurants in our region, we recently zeroed in on Maria's authentic Sicilian Ristorante for dinner. What a treat!

It was a cold, windy, and rainy April Sunday when we walked into the warm, welcoming, and cozy restaurant. Right away we knew we would be in for a wonderful experience.

Maria's started around 35 years ago as a pizzeria and later transformed into a full-scale restaurant. The Priola family had a vision of sharing something very dear to it: Sicilian cuisine, and Sicilian cooking is undeniably the most complex and colorful in Italy . Like hues on a painter's palette, the dishes on a Sicilian table represent the various cuisines of the many civilizations that passed through the island. The Sicilians' innate attachment to tradition have allowed for the preservation and evolution of an elaborate cuisine. In Sicily , new and old, East and West thrive side by side, blending uniquely together as in no other place in the world.

Our dear friends Cathy and Has, as well as our daughter, Kate, joined us for this adventure.

The menu offered a substantial selection, which allowed us to share a variety of starters, entrées, and desserts.

Our choices to begin with consisted of a Ceasar salad with a light and very flavorful dressing and Maria's mozzarella plum tomato salad with fresh basil, which was rightly done with ripe tomatoes and the perfect seasoning. The mozzarella in carozza suited Kate's taste buds, was properly fried, and was accompanied by a delicious marinara. We savored the wonderful aroma of the pasta fagioli soup, with white beans and pastina in a tasty broth, zinged with a splash of tomato sauce and fresh basil—it was so good it could've been dinner by itself.

We continued our dinner adventure with the entrées. An excellent and scrumptious ravioli Florentina in a light tomato sauce over a bed of fresh spinach was a winning selection. The copious eggplant parmigiana did not miss a beat of goodness. Kate found her spaghetti alla Conroy very tasty.. She particularly liked that the pasta was actually finished in the sauce, which intensified the dish. We did go a bit out of bounds (of Italian fare): Has ordered the Maryland crab cake—he was quite impressed with the dish. Back on course, however, the veal chop cacciatore was sublime, stuffed with prosciutto and cheese and topped with a rich mushroom, pepper, and tomato sauce.

I sat down with Bob Becchia, an 11-year veteran manager at Maria's, who was kind enough to answer a few questions. One of them regarded the well-designed wine list. During dinner our table enjoyed a bottle of Verdicchio Fazi Battaglia and found the wine list well balanced. Bob gave all the credit to Charlie Priola, son of Maria and general manager. You can read the answer to the question “How did Maria's develop such a well-balanced wine list?” in a very special story on the wine list.

The chef, Jose, has been there for 20 years; he came from a restaurant in New York .

Becchia also stressed the wonderful private rooms upstairs, where just about any type of event can be catered with custom and flexible menus.

We ended this nice evening with desserts: a carousel of tartuffo, which is soft ice cream encased in a chocolate shell; a chocolate hazelnut cake; a spumoni with rich ice cream; and a cassata cake, a rich double-chocolate cake. All were wonderful—divine—and will give you a guilt trip the next day.

Thanks to Lynn, our waitress, who did a fantastic job taking care of us, especially considering that she is one of the latest additions to the staff.

Gilles Syglowski is a chef, culinary instructor, and food service consultant. He is a graduate of the Lycee d'Enseignement Professional Hotelier in Metz , France . He and his wife, Kathy, a member of the International Wine Society, have more than 50 years' experience in the restaurant industry.

The Dish

By James Houck

Christopher's Maple-Glazed Veal Tenderloin with Smoked Mozzarella Risotto, Spicy Pecans, and Shoestring Sweet Potatoes

Christopher's

1286 Route 3 South

Crofton , MD 21114

(410) 451-1602

christophersdining.com

If you were asked if you would like to learn how to cook gourmet meals at home, you'd likely inquire, “and how much do the lessons cost?” This month, consider yourself lucky—executive chef and owner Chris Bowers of Christopher's restaurant in Crofton offers us a tantalizing recipe that's equal parts glamour and great taste. And with a little know-how around the kitchen, the dish is easy to prepare. The dish—maple-glazed veal tenderloin with smoked mozzarella risotto, spicy pecans, and shoestring sweet potatoes—is a divine, original concoction Bowers basically created on a whim. “The dish was created when we inadvertently received 4 gallons of maple syrup. We do not serve breakfast and I needed to use the ingredient in a creative way that would work for our patrons.” Hence, maple-glazed veal tenderloin.

Christopher's opened in January of 1998, offering Crofton locals a go-to restaurant for four-star contemporary American cuisine. Nine years later the restaurant continues to attract food lovers looking for comfortable, simple, and stylish food and atmosphere. Bowers explains his inspirations. “Becoming a chef stemmed from my mother's love and passion for cooking. Essentially, I am a self-taught chef and I admire Patrick O'Connell from the Inn at Little Washington. I started my culinary career as a pastry chef and graduated from Baltimore International Culinary School , but I view myself more as self-taught after spending over 20 years in the restaurant business. The upscale, contemporary American cuisine that we serve at Christopher's transforms simple ingredients into elegant dishes.” The recipe that Bowers prepared for us is a great example. “All of our ingredients are readily available at the local grocery store. And we strive to use regional foods to create our menu,” he says.

At the center of the dish are tender slices of veal. While some consumers do not agree with the farming practices used to produce veal, the meat is incredibly tender and in high demand at many restaurants. Veal is a versatile meat that is easy to prepare and pairs well with many ingredients. Before the mid-1960s, veal was produced solely in Europe . Many U.S. dairy farmers sold skim milk—a byproduct of butter and cheese processing—to veal producers in the Netherlands, who discovered that feeding calves a diet of skim milk, whey, and fat led to increased meat quality.

On dairy farms, it is accepted practice that a cow gives birth once per year to continue producing milk. Female calves are raised to produce milk. Male calves, on the other hand, traditionally had very little value to the dairy farmer. But a growing consumer demand for veal changed that. Today veal producers have become an integral part of American agriculture, representing a $700 million a year industry.

At Christopher's, demand for veal is a case in point. “The veal tenderloin dish was so popular as a dinner special that we decided to include it as a permanent menu item,” says Bowers.

If you follow each step in the recipe carefully, you'll find that this is an easy-to-prepare dish, ideal for an intimate dinner party. The finishing touches, such as the shoestring sweet potatoes and spicy pecans, take the presentation of the dish over the top. Bowers notes, “There is one technique used to make the dish that should be noted. The risotto underneath the meat should be partially cooked in advance and chilled to prevent it from being overcooked. The risotto can be easily reheated and finished by adding hot liquid prior to serving.”

Sneak Peek

Skewered beef and pork, spring and summer rolls, and Thai ice tea at Saigon Palace .

Saigon Palace

10 Mayo Rd.

Edgewater , MD 21037

(410) 956-0505

www.saigonpalace.us

Stunningly delicious and authentic Vietnamese cuisine! There is no shortage of superlatives to describe our recent dining experience at the new Saigon Palace in Edgewater. Tucked in the small shopping strip just off Mayo Road at the Route 2 junction, the restaurant a very refreshing addition to the south county dining scene. Opened in June '06 by co-owners Henry Mai and Jann Lee, Saigon Palace has a very clean and proper atmosphere that's inviting with small tropical palm plants, bright lighting, cream tile flooring, wood and leather booths along the right, comfortable tables and chairs in the main dining area, and a small bar in the rear. As soothing Vietnamese music plays gently in the background, you'll have little trouble envisioning yourself miles away from home.

The large menu offers a tasty mix of appetizers (spring rolls, skewers of grilled meat), unique salads and special soups, ample rice and noodle dishes, and marvelous house specialties, including curry dishes, that are big on flavor but not overly filling. Mai explained to us that the dishes are created from recipes obtained directly from a friend of his in Vietnam and that Vietnamese food has more vegetables and less fat than Chinese food. Therefore, the cuisine is much lighter and easier to digest. We sampled a mix of pork, beef, and shrimp skewers to start and two house specialties for main courses: Shaky beef (cubed, marinated beef with seasoned potato) and an egg noodle soup with roast pork, shrimp, and fish ball. All were excellent. The drink concoctions are equally impressive. In addition to staple items, specialties include Thai ice tea (coconut milk mixed with tea), avocado milk shake, custard apple milk shake, and soda with preserved plum, to name a few. In all, we enjoyed our experience and will definitely return—with friends! Appetizers run $4–10, salads and soups $4–11, main courses $8–15, and drinks $0.75–3. Open Mon.–Sat., 11 a.m.–10 p.m. and Sun., 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Dine in, carry out, and catering options are available.

--James Houck

The Wine Column: Wines & Vines

By Laurie Forster, The Wine Coach

This Father's Day, June 17, toast your father with an ice cold pint of pilsner or summer ale.

Summer's Brewing!

We start looking forward to backyard barbeques, baseball games, and beer as we enter the summer season. Nothing can quench your thirst on a hot summer day like an icy cold brew. The summer is a perfect time to explore lighter styles of beer and summer brews made specially for the season.

The Basics of Beer

Beer has four main ingredients: malted grain (usually barley), hops, water, and yeast. Barley is malted to make it water-soluble. The malting process is simple. First, barley is soaked in water, allowed to sprout, and then dried in a kiln. Malted barley, which is higher in starch than the unsprouted grain, is crushed and added to hot water in a mash mixer, where starches are converted to sugar. Solids are separated and removed and the remaining sweet water is called “wort.” The wort is then boiled; hops are added to shape the flavor and style to those desired by the brewmaster. Hops are flowers that can be used at various times in the process to add either bitterness or floral aspects to beer. On a brewery tour I was given a handful of hops, which was wonderfully fragrant. The final stages are fermentation, bottling, and labeling.

Styles of Beer

Most beers fall into one of two categories, depending on the type of yeast used in the fermentation process—ales or lagers. Ales are made using yeast strains that ferment at higher temperatures, typically 59°F to 77°F. Ales are often fuller bodied, fruitier, and more aromatic than lagers because esters formed during fermentation produce more complex aromas. The wonderful smells of your favorite wines are also due to alcohol esters formed during fermentation.

In contrast, lagers are made using yeast strains that ferment at lower temperatures than do those used in making ales. Lagers are crisp, refreshing, and lighter bodied than ales—perfect for the summer months. Esters are not formed during the fermentation process, so lagers lack some of the more complex fruit flavors found in fine ales.

Specialty Beers

A few special types of beer are great during the warmer months. One is pilsner, or pils. This light, golden lager is dry, with a malty flavor typically accented with the floral flavors of hops. It is one of the most popular styles of beer in the world. Another great beer, sometimes called weiss, weisse, or hefeweizen, uses malted wheat instead of barley for the main ingredient. This beer is cloudy, with a yeasty quality accented by a tart finish. These wheat beers are sometimes served with either a lemon or an orange slice, although it is not traditional or necessary to do so.

For Father's Day, consider giving a mixed six-pack of some of these great summer beers. In the meantime, fire up the grill, throw on a few burgers, put a game on, buy an assortment of beers of these styles, and invite Dad (or a bunch of friends) over for a tasting . . . and, of course, relax. Summer's here after all! You'll be amazed how refreshing and fun a backyard beer tasting can be.

Try these refreshing brews, perfect to toast the first days of summer:

Sunshine Pils , Pennsylvania

A pilsner-style lager made by Tröegs Brewery, this beer was made for summer. Chris and John, two brothers from Harrisburg , are putting this brewery on the map. Their pilsner is light bodied with the crisp finish of the European-style lagers. An extra dose of hops gives this lager a floral and pleasantly bitter finish. This beer is great with the lighter foods of summer, such as salads and seafood.

Abbaye de Leffe Blonde Ale, Belgium

Originally made by monks, Leffe was first brewed in 1240 and is still brewed in much the same way today. This abbey-style blonde ale from Leffe is full bodied, dry, and creamy, with great fruit flavors and a hint of spice. It has a delicate, malty aroma with a subtle, sweet finish. Try this blonde ale with barbequed chicken and an ear of buttered corn.

Hacker-Pschorr Weisse, Germany

This wheat beer from Bavaria is the most popular of the beers brewed by Hacker-Pschorr, which has been making beer since the early 1400s. Bavaria introduced the world to wheat-style beers. Hazy and golden, this brew is like many of the dog days of summer. Flavors of sourdough bread are accented by a hint of banana, making this a beer even Mom will love! Hacker-Pschorr Weisse has a slight sweetness that makes it a great pairing for spicy grilled kielbasa or bratwurst.

Poleeko Ale , California

In 1987, Anderson Valley Brewing Company began making beer in the lower level of the Buckhorn Saloon. Soon thereafter, demand skyrocketed for these “ California style” ales lovingly made by Kenneth and Kimberly Allen. They now have their own thirty-tank brewery, where t hey use Pacific Northwest hops to give these ales a unique style. This pale ale is crisp, clear, and unusually light for such a full-flavored beer. The hops add both a floral nose and a lively, citrus finish—excellent served with grilled meats and spicy foods.

Fordham Wisteria Wheat, Annapolis

Locals of Annapolis know that Rams Head Tavern is home to Fordham Brewery and their tasty selection of seasonal brews, available only in the Rams Head family of taverns. This June sees the release of Wisteria Wheat, another wheat-style beer that's cloudy golden from the bottom-fermented yeast, which also gives this style of beer it's distinct hints of banana and lemon flavors. Served ice cold and fresh, it's perfect for summer sipping.

Laurie Forster, The Wine Coach™, studied with the American Sommelier Association in Manhattan and earned a certificate in viticulture and vinification. For more information on Ms. Forster visit www.thewinecoach.com.

Fisherman's Inn

3116 Main St. , Grasonville , Maryland , (410) 827-8807

By Stephanie Adams

Fisherman's Inn is a tried-and-true Eastern Shore landmark that's rather hard to miss—and definitely a spot you'd regret passing by! If you're heading east (and west too?) on Route 50, above the area that makes up Kent Narrows , a huge sign announces your approach. As you near the exit, you can spot the long, blue-green building and its attached lighthouse. Adjacent to the inn is Fisherman's Crab Deck, with its outdoor dining area (which overflows with mallet-wielding folks in the summertime). Behind the restaurants, docked boats bob in the rippling water of the Bay. With a setting like this, you just know you are in for some top-notch seafood—and Fisherman's doesn't disappoint.

The inn's dining room is very spacious and seats close to 300. The many large windows around the exterior of the room provide a panoramic view of the water. An interior wall boasts a big brick fireplace, glowing lanterns shed additional light, and an electric train sails around a track suspended from the ceiling. Oyster plate displays, waterfowl decoys, and various nautical props not only celebrate Kent Island 's maritime history, but also provide the perfect backdrop to a seafood dinner.

A group of colleagues and I recently decided to celebrate the completion of a project by visiting Fisherman's Inn for lunch. Although the day was overcast, the waterfront restaurant was filled with chatting couples, business folks, and families. We sat at a nice, roomy table and ordered a round of iced tea as we perused the vast menu. With a focus on all sea fare, the appetizer menu's options ranged from traditional items, such as hot crab dip, littleneck clams, and fried oysters, to creative choices, such as a crab and tomato tart, shrimp and crab nachos, and seafood quesadillas ($5.99–12.99). Soups included oyster stew, cream of crab soup, vegetable crab soup, and clam chowder, by the cup or bowl ($3.99–6.99).

Fisherman's traditional fare entrées offer just about every variation of fish, crab, scallops, shrimp, and oysters that you can imagine and are served with a choice of two sides ($14.99–29.99). Additionally, there are steamed Maine lobsters ($21.99–29.99) and beef & combo options that feature prime rib, Angus New York strip steak, and filet mignon ($25.99–$31.99). Being there in the early afternoon, our group chose from the restaurant's lunch and sandwich menu, which provided plenty of options. Sandwich choices include seafood favorites (crabcake, fried oyster, catfish), but also burgers, chicken, and prime rib, among others ($7.99–16.99). Salads, pasta, and smaller seafood plates complete the lunch menu ($7.99–16.99).

I ordered a citrus salmon salad, which came in an oversized bowl with a large piece of marinated and grilled salmon fillet over lots of crisp romaine lettuce, with fresh orange and avocado slices and hearts of palm ($10.99). The salad was liberally dressed in citrus-cilantro vinaigrette, which added a refreshing zing to the dish. A friend chose the special of the day, a potato-encrusted rockfish (it was also available broiled or fried) with lobster Newburg sauce ($9.99). With a stuffed potato as her side, she described the plate as rich and satisfying. Other picks included a generous portion of tender, flaky fish and chips ($9.99), a crab cake with lots of lump crabmeat ($14.99), and the seafood quesadillas ($9.99), which had lots of fresh shrimp and crab and a delicious light sauce—best of all, there was enough to take home for a late-afternoon snack!

Fisherman's Inn is open year-round, and daily for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fisherman's Seafood Market presents its freshest catch Sunday through Thursday from 9 a.m.–6 p.m., and until 7 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. The Crab Deck opens for the season in mid-April. Thirsty Thursdays offers free nibbles and music until 10 p.m. Both restaurants have plentiful bars and accommodations for large-group parties and events. Fisherman's also offers Bay tours, sunset cruises, and fishing charters that leave right from its docks.