What's Up Magazines

When Two Wheels are Better than Four

By Anne McNulty

Five routes to discover the Shore by bike

It's time to wheel your dusty bicycle out of the garage, get yourself out of the house, and fight against—or coast with—the wind along the Eastern Shore’s highways and byways. Ideal cycling territory on the Delmarva Peninsula stretches from the Chesapeake Bay to the Atlantic beaches, traversing the farmlands and marshlands in between. Cyclists in Caroline, Dorchester, Kent, Queen Anne’s, and Talbot counties are privy to serpentine routes, equally likely to pass through historic locations and nature preserves as they are scenic landscapes and docile fields. The saying goes that you never forget how to ride a bike; here are five routes that will make you ask yourself why you ever stopped in the first place.

Dorchester County

Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge is accesible by bike on three scenic loops. The shortest route, 6.5-mile Wildlife Drive, delivers cyclists through open marshes and woodlands. Without a pane of glass, a barrier of plastic, or the hum of mechanics between you and nature, you’ll be more likely to set eyes on the wildlife that’s made Blackwater one of the region’s most compelling destinations.
“You’ll spot eagles, ducks, osprey, resident Canada geese, and blue herons,” says Maggie Briggs, the refuge’s visitors services manager. “Egrets have returned. We’ve even spotted white pelicans here the last three or four years.”

The more ambitious cyclists will want to travel the 20- or 25-mile loops around the sanctuary. These routes are comprised of public roads, so be sure to wear a helmet. Find maps online or obtain them at Blackwater’s visitors center. Bring plenty of water, snacks, and an able partner (or ride alone, if that’s your bag).

Talbot County

Paul Lombardo, manager of the Bike Doctor shop in Easton, clutches the handlebars of his Cannondale and leans low into the wind as he flies along the flat, open roads of Talbot County. He zips past rolling estates and rolls over bridges that cross Peach Blossom Creek and the Miles River. His legs propel the bike up to 20 miles per hour as he completes the final loop of the 100-mile Century Bicycle Ride, sponsored each September by eight area Bike Doctor franchises. The final loop of this ride starts out in St. Michaels, goes south to Tilghman Island, and then north through Royal to the Bellevue Ferry, which transports cyclists across the Tred Avon River to Oxford. From there, they peddle east on Route 333 to Easton, over the Miles River to Tunis Mills, and back to their starting point in St. Michaels along Route 33.

Lombardo likes this loop because the main roads provide eight-foot-wide berms (shoulders), specifically planned to accommodate bikers. He completes the loop in about five hours; for less-experienced riders, it might take all day. “Anyone can do it,” he says. “You don’t have to go the whole distance, but you should be able to ride for at least an hour. Most people can bike about 20 miles.” He stresses the benefits of the sport’s low-impact bodily demands. “People bike into their eighties, and it’s cheaper than paying green fees.”

Lombardo also says you can ride anywhere there’s a decent road, as long as you have a bike and a map. “There are so many lovely back roads in this area. All you have to do is find one and go. Some don’t have shoulders, so be sure to wear bright colors and have bike reflectors.” If you prefer explicit routes, cycling maps are available at the Talbot County Visitors Center in Easton.

Queen Anne’s County

Two paths battle for supremacy in Queen Anne’s County. The Cross Island Trail begins at the old Kent Narrows Drawbridge. Ride past the massive supports of the present Kent Narrows Bridge and over the open waters of the Chester River. From there, the trail winds through newly green woods, which promise a canopy of summer shade. Bounce over wooden footbridges and pass helmeted tots on tricycles, feverishly peddling with their amused parents close behind. Maneuver among pesky squirrels and teenagers with cell phones attached to their ears before reaching Terrapin Nature Park in Stevensville, where the shimmering spires of the Bay Bridge rise before you in the near distance. Bump along the short dirt trail until reaching the beach and you’ll find yourself at the very foot of the bridge, which hovers majestically over the Chesapeake. Total distance: about 12 miles round-trip.
Beginning at Matapeake State Park and ending at the Romancoke, the South Kent Island Trail stretches south along Route 8 through pine-scented woods and meanders past Blue Heron Golf Course alongside green fields that allow for momentary glimpses of the Bay. The Eastern Bay nearly laps at your feet at Romancoke Park, with conveniences such as picnic tables, benches, and public rest rooms. Total distance, again, is about 12 miles round-trip.

Caroline County

“Caroline County is a long, skinny county,” says Kathy Mackell, the county’s director of tourism, whose office recently completed a color-coded map of 11 popular bike routes that range from 14.5 miles to 48.2 miles in length. “Our rural roads are user-friendly and are very lightly traveled. Towns have names like Bethlehem, Harmony, and American Corner.”

Hog Lot and Cow Barn Roads, both of which border the Ridgley Air Park on Race Road just off Route 312, reveal beautiful rural landscapes, nostalgia, and more. Colorful hang-gliders in the sky drift above newly planted corn fields. Although tempted to glide through the air, I decided instead to glide my bike back down the road.

Biking excursions in this quiet county reflect the diversity of biking on the Delmarva Peninsula. Visit Denton and the Museum of Rural life, which showcases the homes of four classes of society that existed in the 18th and 19th centuries. Tuckahoe State Park satisfies the rugged cyclist with 15 mountain biking trails; or take a trip to the county’s northern boundary, where 33 crown stones denote the Mason-Dixon Line.

Kent County

Farther north, Chestertown’s Victorian homes give way to Kent County’s rolling countryside, where rural roads like Fish Hatchery Road and Handy Point Road beckon. Try biking down Fish Hatchery Road, which intersects Handy Point Road. Climb demanding inclines and coast down their complementary slopes. While you’re admiring the beauty of silo-dotted landscapes, an occasional car might pass by, a reminder that you are, indeed, still living in the 21st century.

You can also discover side roads such as Marina and Schooner Roads, which afford views of Fairlee Creek. This trip totals about 16 miles, but many other byways offer longer alternatives.

The Baltimore Bicyling Club holds its annual Memorial Day Weekend Spring Fling in Kent County. “We’re expecting about 400 to 450 people,” says Frank Anders, one of the event’s organizers. “This is our twenty-seventh year and the event almost becomes a family reunion.” The club hosts the event in cooperation with Washington College, where many of the participants are housed in dorm rooms. Members and guests are provided with route maps and cue sheets, and everyone is required to wear a helmet. Held the same weekend as the annual Chestertown Tea Party Festival, other Spring Fling activities include a bluegrass band and square dancing.

To discover your own Eastern Shore world, just hop on your bike and see where the road leads you.

Observe biking safety.
Always wear a helmet and carry water or an energy drink. Use a bicycle bell, a mirror, and stay on the right shoulder. Groups should ride single-file. Bring a bicycle tool kit, a bike pump, and an extra inner tube. For those less mechanically inclined, bring a cell phone and a good friend. Use the provided maps as a starting point only. Use official maps to navigate your trip.

Directions for Kent County loop.
Ride north on Route 213 through Chestertown. Turn left on Route 297, followed by a left onto Route 298. Turn right onto Handy Point Road.

Tags: Bike Ride Eastern Shore Bike Routes

More Articles