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Sean Donlon's Irish Pub and Restaurant
37 West Street, Annapolis
410-263-1993
by Gilles and Kathy Syglowski

Does anyone know the famous Irish poet who was born on January 25th? Because I want to remember that birthday.

It brought out the "regulars" at Sean Donlon's in full kilt. Yes, kilts. It seems the Irish never really need an excuse to celebrate, and when it's your birthday, and you're Irish, it's time to go to your local pub. If you happen to belong to a band, bring them, too. It's the more the merrier, as we found on a recent visit.

Having heard rumors that Pam and James Finlay were in the process of expanding Sean Donlon's, we wanted to check it out. Though a snowstorm was on the way, the place was full of revelers (in kilts)… singing, with a contingent of middies, and their band. We made our way through the crowd to a cozy table next to the fireplace.

After selecting a lovely glass of merlot from the quaint wine list (it contained about twelve selections and featured two), we made our way to the appetizers. Every son of the auld sod would have appreciated the cockles and mussels, simply prepared to enhance the true flavor. The Whiskey Shrimp, very different, had a kiss of sweetness that made them taste even more tender. The crab and artichoke dip, which we tasted on our last visit, is consistently good, and the Dublin seafood chowder; rich and hearty, is one of my favorites. The smoked salmon comes with all the accompaniments and gets top marks for excellent quality. Prices ranged from $4.95 for a bowl of the delicious chowder to $10.95 for the smoked salmon and crab terrine.

For our entrées, we selected the corned beef and cabbage, loaded with tradition and extremely tender, for $12.50; a perfectly cooked 12-ounce New York strip for $16.95 for our little carnivore; the Southwestern Crayfish and crab Florentine, served tossed in fettuccini pasta with a hint of heat, for $16.50; and the stuffed grouper topped with roasted corn and wild mushroom salsa and raspberry Chile bbq sauce-an unusual combination, yet unreservedly delicious at $15.95. Both of the latter were selections from the daily special menu.

We finished with a hot and frothy Celtic coffee, chocolate mousse, chocolate Peek a Boo Truffles and a Zango, which is a fantastic combination of banana, caramel and cheese, rolled like an egg roll and deep-fried. Desserts range in price from $ 4.50-4.95.

Chef Mike Houghton has been sharpening his skills in various locations around Annapolis and the Eastern Shore, including the Tilghman Island Inn, Loews Annapolis Hotel and the Rams Head Tavern. He joined the Sean Donlon's team in May 2003 and plans to settle in for awhile. Some of the menu items are his creation, and soon you will be able to enjoy a few more-all in keeping with the Irish flair.

Mike is quite excited about the restaurant's upstairs expansion and so are we. The renovations are not yet complete, but will provide additional seating with the same cozy, intimate atmosphere as the downstairs. Private parties can be accommodated, and a separate ventilation system guarantees a smoke-free environment.

Irish or not, special occasion or otherwise, a visit to Sean Donlon's will remind you that life is a banquet.