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Dining with Gilles & Kathy

Julia's
122 N. Commerce St., Centreville, MD
410-758-0471

Webster's definition of the word inspire: 1. to fill with an animating or exalting influence, 3. to affect with a feeling or thought, 4. to guide or control by divine influence. The word certainly describes the talents of chef David Clark. A longtime resident of Centerville, Clark graduated from Baltimore International Culinary College in 1995 and apprenticed at various institutions such as Manor Inn and 208 Talbot in St. Michael's, where he mastered his craft and met his beautiful wife Valerie. They married in 1999 and returned home to Centreville (with their dog Julia, named for Julia Child) to open their restaurant, which shares the same name and inspiration.

This quaint establishment is located in the center of town amid other historic Victorian structures. On this rainy evening in early spring, we did not have the opportunity to meet Dave's main inspiration, Valerie, for she had given birth to their son, Ethan William, just three nights prior to our arrival.

We were greeted by our hostess and led to our table, where we found our name printed on a small tag with a paw print signature-a charming personal touch. The room is small but sufficient, with natural brick walls on one side and watercolors from local artist Linda Roberts on the other, giving it a warm and cozy feeling.

Our server, Sara, recited the evening's specials with passion. Just the way she described them made our mouths water. She spoke as if she had prepared them personally, her wonderful attention to detail exuding professionalism. Having attentive service is a great way to start a dining experience.

We started with a bottle of 2001, BV Cabernet, selected from the small but favorable wine list. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed this particular vintage and it was nice to be able to select a half bottle, since I was the only one partaking. Julia's offers several selections by the glass and half bottle.

Our appetizers consisted of Caesar salad, the most flavorful I have enjoyed in a long time, Baked Oysters with sautéed spinach, pancetta and horseradish cream, cooked to perfection, tender and delicious, and Duck Confit Ravioli (house made) filled with duck confit, goat cheese and caramelized onions and finished with a tangerine butter sauce and parmesan cheese. "Out of this world" is a tag line used far too often, but was a fitting description for this dish.

With such a promising start, we could hardly wait for our entrées. I chose the special, Wild Rockfish, pan-seared atop Yukon gold mashed potatoes, surrounded by asparagus and lobster and crab cakes in a pool of whole grain mustard sauce. Euphoria is the word that comes to mind. I was sorry I had to leave some on my plate-it was simply perfect. (I had to call Chef Clark the next day to get the recipe, which he gladly gave, along with instructions.) Katelyn's Angus Filet Mignon, accompanied by potato gallette, haircots verts and tournade carrots in a cabernet demi glaze, was prepared medium rare and melted in your mouth. Gilles chose the Veal Medallions, a trio of tender pieces seared medium, served with fettuccine in a sage cream sauce and garnished with roasted mushrooms, jumbo gulf shrimp and shredded parmesan cheese.

We passed around portions for all to taste, enjoying the opportunity to have all of our favorite selections, perfectly prepared, on one table. (Maybe this was why I couldn't finish my dish.)

When it came time for dessert, Katelyn was the only one with room for the Kahlua Crème Bruleé. Gilles and I elected to take our Apples Napoleon and Hot Chocolate Gateau home with us. After all, it was a chilly evening and we wanted to savor the experience in front of the fireplace (and the drive home would give us time to reminisce about dinner and make room for dessert.)

Julia's opened in May 2003 and has been quite successful (do call ahead for reservations), though it is no longer open for lunch. A new, lighter spring menu is in the works and should be in place by May. Of course, as soon as it is complete, we will return to sample David Clark's creations, accompanied by many of our chef friends. It's been three days since dinner and we are still talking about it… using mostly descriptive moans rather than words.