Your Great Outdoors:
Maryland's Best Camping and Hiking
By j.s. houck
Conquering terrestrial terrors, then planting the flag is to Sir Edmund Hillary as hiking the Blue Ridge Mountains and pitching camp is to…you. This summer and fall, you too can organize the perfect outdoor getaway. Whether it's a day-hike capped off by a vineyard tour and wine tasting or a three-day scramble to a Shenandoah summit, this guide will get you going, with a list of regional "hot spots" (all within a three-hour drive) and a review of new products for outdoor comfort and relaxation.
Day Trekking Faves
Sweating out your urge to "get back to nature" doesn't necessarily mean week-long meanderings into the backcountry. From Central to Southern Maryland and across the Chesapeake to the Eastern Shore, day-trip trailblazing can be yours-on terra or aqua. Mountain biking, kayaking, and hiking highlight the selection of primo destinations, relaxing to strenuous, each with an epicurean ending (change of clothes recommended!).
Appalachian Trail: Hike to Annapolis Rock, MD
The trailhead (start) of this 4.9 mile roundtrip hike is located off of Route 40, just east of Greenbrier State Park, near Boonsboro (about 1 hr., 45 min. by car from Annapolis). As you approach the area, your sleuthing skills are needed-look for a parking lot with a "Smokey the Bear" fire condition sign across the highway and you're there. Park in the lot and begin your ascent along the blue blaze marked trail. This is a moderate climb, with most elevation taking place in the beginning, followed by level terrain before the trail diverges from the AT (at 2 miles in) and heads toward Annapolis Rock, where breathtaking views can be had along with rock scrambling with the kids. After the hike, finish off the day with a pit-stop at Heather B's Pub in historic Boonsboro, with an extensive menu of American favorites, seafood/steaks, Italian, sandwiches, pizza, and more, priced for all wallet sizes.
Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, MD
Kayakers claim the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge has the best water to paddle on the Eastern Shore. Located 12 miles south of Cambridge (1 hr., 15 min.), BNWR also boasts biking trails (3, 6, 20, 25 mile loops) and other rec opportunities such as birding, fishing, hunting (by permit only) and hiking throughout its 27,000 protected acres, composed mostly of rich tidal marshes, freshwater ponds, mixed evergreen tree and deciduous forests. Wildlife Drive is the main artery through the park. Because of its "refuge" status, all entrants must obtain a daily permit. Heading home, an evening in Historic Easton is in order. One recommendation: take in dinner at Legal Spirits, then literally two-step your way next door for a concert at the Avalon Theatre.
Tuckahoe State Park, MD
Take the entire family to Tuckahoe State Park, only 35 miles east of the Bay Bridge, for outdoor solace and exploration. Twenty miles of scenic hiking, biking and equestrian trails, featuring tagged native species of trees and shrubs, follow Tuckahoe Creek to a 60-acre lake, ideal for boating and fishing. Flat-water canoeing, picnicking, and a recycled tire playground make Tuckahoe a pleasant family getaway spot. After you've worked up an appetite, gather the whole crew and head back to Fisherman's Inn and Crabdeck in Kent Narrows for steamed crabs, ice cold brews and jovial atmosphere.
Calvert Cliffs, MD
What a spot to take the kids or to discover your own inner child. Fossil hunters love Calvert Cliffs, deep in southern Calvert Co. (1.5 hrs.) for its millennia-old opportunities for discovery. A 2 mile hike from the parking lot takes you to the cliffs/beach area, where sharks teeth and other marine fossils can be found-visitors keep what they find. There's an additional 13 miles of marked foot trails for the biped in all of us, along with hunting and fishing (licenses required). Afterwards, belly-up at the Old Field Inn & Lounge for an exquisite gourmet wine dinner (held the second Friday of each month) that pairs seven courses to five wines-located in Prince Frederick.
Merkle Wildlife Sanctuary, MD
Heading south along Rt. 301, a little gem resides about 40 minutes away-the Merkle Wildlife Sanctuary, so named after Edgar Merkle (1900-1984), an active conservationist. The popular draw is the Critical Area Driving Tour (CADT), an 8 mile round trip self-guided tour through the sanctuary's forests, marshes, ponds and the Patuxent riverside, peaking with a 40-foot high observation tower overlooking the entire property. Four additional trails wind their way through the sanctuary, suitable for hiking, biking and horseback riding. Heading north on your way home, cut west to Route 2, and eventually continue west on Rt. 255. The West River awaits, as does Pirates Cove/Big Mary's Dock Bar, where a tropical seafood soireé can be yours.
Columbia Island, D.C.
Columbia Island, the product of a 1916 Potomac River dredging, is the perfect quick fix for an urban getaway, close to home. A 35 min. drive into D.C. (head towards Arlington Cemetery) gets you there. Enjoy relaxing, easy hikes/walks, perfect for youngsters or elderly, with excellent views of the sprawling city across the river. While you're there, zip across the Potomac for summer evening options: power politico dining at the likes of The Palm, The Monocle, Bistro Bis, or Charlie Palmer, or United soccer or Nationals baseball at RFK Stadium.
Great Falls Park, MD
Opposite the wildly popular Great Falls Park in Virginia, three sections of moderate to strenuous trail can be found along the Maryland side of the Potomac, just a skip from I-495. The Billy Goat Trail, sectioned into A, B, and C, begins at the A trailhead located across the street from Old Anglers Inn (Exit 41: Clara Barton Pkwy. towards Caderock, make left at MacArthur Blvd. junction, head west.) The blue blazed trail features difficult rock scrambling along the banks of Mather Gorge (where the Falls spill into somewhat tamer waters), moving upriver towards moderate floodplains before finishing with scenic views of the Falls themselves. Altogether, the three sections comprise an all-day hike, not for the faint of heart. Taken separately, one section suffices for a less tiring excursion. Make the day a picnic event: hike and picnic along the trails, then wine 'n' dine on the lawns of the Filene Center at Wolf Trap in Vienna, VA while taking in an evening concert.
Gunpowder Falls State Park, MD
More than 100 miles of trails, spread over 18,000 acres of varied terrain in Harford and Baltimore Counties (1 hr.), lend themselves diverse outdoor sporting: hiking, biking, cross-country skiing (weather permitting), birding, horseback riding, hunting and fishing (catch and put). But that's not all. Easy to very difficult kayaking and canoeing around Big Gunpowder Falls is suitable for families with older children (and in some stretches, only for experienced kayakers). There's even a beach and swimming area along Gunpowder River, where Ultimate Watersports rents kayaks, wind surfboards, and catamarans. In all, there's enough at Gunpowder Falls to keep you busy for a full day, and coming back for more. And the perfect ending to well-rounded day? Boordy Vineyards is only 15 minutes away in Hydes, MD, making it the perfect repository for the day's summary and evening conversation, enjoyed during their Midsummer Concert Series with dancing, picnicking and, of course, wine tasting.
Susquehanna State Park, MD
Long popular among hikers, mountain bikers and equestrians the trails along the ridges and valleys of the Susquehanna River feature massive rock outcroppings, steep drop-offs, and thick forests (helmets recommended!). Susquehanna State Park (1 hr.) also offers great fishing opportunities for pike, perch, and bass for shoreline anglers and boating enthusiasts who launch from the Lapidum Boat Ramp. The park is also home to the Rock Run Historic Area, featuring the 200 hundred year-old Rock Run Grist Mill, Rock Run Mansion, Jersey Toll House, and the remnants of the Susquehanna Tidewater Canal. When the sun begins to set, there's waterfront fine dining and bayside boardwalk cruising in Havre de Grace (only 10 minutes from the park).
Overnight Adventures
When it comes to overnight zzz's in the local great outdoors, you can opt for familial accommodations or serious environs. Weather patterns and terrain conditions are two primary considerations when deciding when and where to pitch your tent. Are you seeking defined campsites in a beach-side setting (sacrificing isolation for comfort) or backcountry packing in the dense forests of the Shenandoah Valley (vice-versa)? It's your adventure, and although the basics of camp survival vary, two rules outrank all others: research and prepare adequately for your trip and leave no trace of your visit-pack out all trash and do not disturb, damage, or remove wildlife, plants, rocks, or historical artifacts.
Assateague Island National Seashore, MD-VA
Perfect for a weekend sleepover, beachfront camping on the dunes of Assateague Island is a beautiful experience…if the weather cooperates, the bugs don't bite, and the wind isn't whipping. Camp at Assateague among its many marked tent sites, either oceanside or bayside, on a first come, first served basis. Backcountry enthusiasts may camp on two oceanside or four bayside sites with access to island backpacking and paddling ($5 backcountry permit required). Beware, camping on the sands of Assateague means full exposure to the elements-there is no tree coverage to protect from hard rains, direct sun, or harsh winds. Extremely close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean can mean sudden storms. On the flip side, if all is well weather-wise, you have the opportunity to enjoy ocean swimming without the crowds, beach barbeques, celestial beauty, and a chance to encounter the wild ponies (among other wildlife) that call Assateague home (no feeding allowed).
Cape Henlopen State Park, DE
North of Assateague Island, Ocean City and Rehoboth Beach, Cape Henlopen in Lewes, DE, provides an adequate family 'n' friends camping experience, mixing forest and beach settings into a 5,193 acre pattern of pine trees, sand dunes, mixed shrubbery, and salt marshes. Among its many trails, you'll encounter WWII Observation Towers and barracks that once housed soldiers-it's a history lesson wrapped around the great outdoors. The marked tent sites are set in the pine forests, along winding paths that lead to the beach areas (check out Great Dune), where swimming, sunbathing and surf-fishing are yours.
Appalachian Trail, MD
This four day camping adventure along the Maryland portion of the Appalachian Trail is broken into four legs (which can be done as separate day hikes), each with its rewards. For this backpacking trip, you will need to pack carefully and adequately, while keeping an eye on your pack weight. Beginning at PenMar Park (where the AT crosses PenMar Rd.), just south of the Mason-Dixon line, the 9.4 mile leg ascends Quirack Mountain, reaching the highest elevation of the AT in Maryland. First night's camp is recommended at the Ensign Cowell shelter located at the end of this moderate hike. Leg two (13.8 miles) is mostly smooth and enjoyable with some stretches of rocky terrain, during which you'll encounter spectacular views from Black Rock and the better known Annapolis Rock, Washington Monument, a Gothic Chapel and Stone Mountain Inn, where you'll end the day at nearby Dahlgrens campground. Leg three (10.9 miles) is a moderate hike through Fox's Gap (site of the Civil War Battle of South Mountain), Lamb's Knoll (the last major uphill push of the trip) and Gathland, home of the Civil War-era War Correspondents Memorial. Spend the night at the Ed Garvey shelter. Leg four (6.3 miles) brings finality to your trip. Smooth, flat trails give way to a switchback descent. Just before the switchback, take a marked side trail to Weverton Cliffs for awesome views of the Potomac, where you may be able to see the Episcopal Church steeple of Harper's Ferry, your final destination.
Catoctin National Park/Cunningham Falls State Park, MD
These two adjacent parks (Catoctin managed by the National Park Service, CF by the MD Dept. of Natural Resources) feature camping amenities and plenty of trails (no bikes allowed), taking you from one campground to another (three in all) for an experience that's comfortable during the evening and strenuous during the day. The William Houck Camping Area in Cunningham Falls serves as the mid-point campground, from which you can explore the best of both parks. Just a half-mile north, you'll find the Falls, with it's 78-foot cascading centerpiece. Hike northeast into Catoctin NP for rock scrambling over boulders and deep crevices and spectacular views at Chimney and Wolf Rocks. Head south along the Catoctin Trail back into CFP for equally stunning climbs to Cat Rock and Bobs Hill.
Patapsco Valley State Park, MD
With over 35 miles of trails open to mountain biking, Patapsco Valley State Park has long been the choice for area practitioners of the sport. There's something for everyone: smooth single-track trails, open rocky sections, and plenty of switchbacks. Canoeing, hiking and tubing are also favorite pastimes at Patapsco. Camp in the Hollofield or Hilton Areas and spread your wings over the park's 14,000 acres.
Pocomoke River State Park/State Forest, MD
Pocomoke means "black water," and these dark waters of the Pocomoke River offer excellent kayaking/canoeing and fishing (over 50 species). Two camping areas are designated: Shad Landing and Milburn Landing, each waterfront. Biking and hiking trails round out this remote corner of Worcester Co. On the river, you'll paddle through shady "caverns" of foliage, white-blossomed water lilies, fallen logs and the exposed "knees" of the bald cypress-it's flat water canoeing at its finest. And keep your eyes open for the rich diversity of wildlife including bald eagles, blue herons, sea otters, and turtles.
Shenandoah National Park, VA
When you think of remote backcountry hiking and camping, one area trumps all others-Shenandoah National Park, sprawled across the great Blue Ridge Mountains. A whopping 500 miles of trails bob and weave through this massive park, through which the Shenandoah River flows, as does the 105 mile Skyline Drive, which winds along the crest of the mountains through the park. Backcountry camping (permit required) is the way to best explore and appreciate Blue Ridge wonder. The park is divided into twelve main areas, each accessible from Skyline Drive. Before embarking, research and plan ahead-you'll need to familiarize yourself with park regulations, topography and logistics, and items you may be unaccustomed to bringing (i.e. rope to hang food from black bears). Of the twelve areas, three are favorites: Old Rag Area (many claim the rock scrambling to Old Rag, "the best hike in VA"), Whiteoak Canyon Area (known for its Lower and Upper Falls), and Hawksbill Mountain Area (the highest peak in the park at 4050').
Resources
State and National
Additional Resources
Gear to Get Into
Jetboil Personal Cooking Systems (PCS)
Jetboil is a light (only 15 oz.), compact and expandable cooking unit, sturdy and stable, as wide as a Nalgene bottle and shorter. Boil time is 2 minutes for 2 cups. It's integrated burner and cookware with 1 liter capacity is ideal for soups, drinks, freeze dried meals, and pastas. website
Coleman 2D Widebeam Flashlight
On the evening trail, you'll need a widebeam source of light for navigation and safety. The new Coleman Widebeam Flashlight runs on 2 D-batteries, providing a 50% wider beam of light than an average flashlight, increasing peripheral vision without sacrificing distance. website
Bite Outdoor Footwear Orthosport Primal Shoe
Aggressive, quick drying water shoe with drainage ports. Designed for land and amphibious wear-boating, rafting, canoeing, canyoneering. Integrated toe guard for foot protection. Comes with lightweight, quick-drying OS2 footbed and ortholiner for a more comfortable, customized fit. website
Lafuma 1 Kilo Extreme Sleeping Bag
Lafuma's best selling bag with a 33-degree F temperature rating makes the 1 Kilo a good fit for all seasons in our region. Features include Thermolite Extreme Insulation, full hood with easy access drawcord, left and right zippers, and cold proof flap. website
Sierra Omega Light Tent
Weighing in at 5 lbs. 10 oz., the Omega Light is an ultralight convertible tent ideal for 3 or 4 season conditions. It sleeps two comforatably and features gear pockets, tent guard, Clip-Loc technology, and color coded webbing. website
Ultimate Direction Naviti Day Hike Pack
A great day-hike pack, the Naviti carries two water bottles with patented Kicker Valves, in a canted position for easy access. A large zippered main pocket, second outer pocket, and removable waistbelt pocket provide stash room. website
HighGear Summit Watch
This watch has it all for backcountry digital navigating: altimeter, barometer, compass, thermometer, time, alarm, chronograph, stainless steel navigation bezel, backlight and water resistance to 100 feet. website
HighGear Trail Audio MP3 Player
Entertainment for the outdoors. These lightweight, skip proof, digital audio players feature built in 256 or 512 mb flash memory, equalizer, built in USB 2.0, LCD display, FM radio with 12 station presets, FM recording, splash proof construction, and up to 17 hours of continuous play. Comes with a detachable USB-cap carabiner clip. Windows 98 or higher and Mac OS 10 compatible. website
GoLite Shazam Pants/Shorts
Made with durable, quick-drying Tactel™ nylon and a patented C-Thru™ performance layer lined waist band for moisture dissipation, the Shazam pants quickly morph into trail shorts by zipping off the legs. website
Backpacker's Pantry Performance Entrees
These all-natural dishes are enhanced with vitamin supplements designed to provide you with recommended daily allowances, so you can perform better and hike longer in the backcountry. Choices include Saigon Noodles with Chicken, Cajun Salmon Inferno, Beef Stroganoff, Katmandu Curry, among many others. website
REI Gemini 50L All-Terrain Pack
A great pack for short backcountry trips with a detachable summit pack that holds a hydration reservoir. The medium size has an 18-inch back length and 50 liters of storage space. The large size has a 20-inch back length and 55 liters of storage space. Other universal features: gear loops, mesh organizer pockets, top pockets with essentials organizer, external flip-flop side compression (for skis or boards), cockpit pockets.